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| Wanna9146 |
Jul 14 2008, 10:10 PM
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#1
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Member ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 235 Joined: 19-January 08 From: Florida Member No.: 8,595 Region Association: South East States |
I read on this forum recently about someone swapping out their proportioning valve for a "T" fitting.
Does anyone know the size/thread count of the correct "T" fitting? Any fabrication required? |
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| Eric_Shea |
Jul 16 2008, 08:11 PM
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#2
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PMB Performance ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Admin Posts: 19,304 Joined: 3-September 03 From: Salt Lake City, UT Member No.: 1,110 Region Association: Rocky Mountains |
QUOTE Does anyone know a sucessful setup for up a system like mine (with much larger calipers in front) short of a front proportioning valve (I don't like that idea) or dual MC / balance bar setup? You have what are called "Wide A-Calipers" up front. This is a standard A-Caliper (very similar to what Jon has as well) with a wider spacer to accommodate the 24mm wide rotor. The standard A-Caliper that Jon has rests on the same 20mm 911 rotor that the M and S-Calipers went on. I reference Jon because he was asking a similar question over the phone a few minutes ago. While I personally think the A-Calipers are heavy, I like the 20mm vented rotor for many reasons. I'm not a fan of the Carrera system because I think it is too heavy for a 914 as there's generally too much rotating mass (24mm rotors) for such a light car BUT... that being said and the fact that you have the system and 914-6 rear calipers; let's review. The "bias" is generally set from the factory with piston and pad sizes. This is something that you've fallen off a bit by installing the Carrera calipers up front. The Carrera was the first car to get a larger 42mm piston in the rear, yet it was also the first 911 with a p-valve. The p-valve in a 914 will simply act as a safety feature under extreme braking. By turning the screw counter-clockwise you will take some preload off the regulator spring. This means your rear brakes will be engaged longer in the braking cycle before being shut off (not engaged) -or- you'll have to push harder on the pedal to get it to shut down (stop from braking) the rears. Ideally, you'll want your rear calipers to come loose as soon as the fronts shut down or lock. You never want your rears to lock on a 914. They should ride that ragged edge for best braking. Because A, S and M-Calipers with their 48mm pistons have been matched up with the rear M-Caliper with it's 38mm pistons on all 911's from 1969 through 1983 I still think you're OK with the brake bias that you have (your rear 914-6 calipers have the 38mm pistons). You just have huge front rotors. Depending on the master cylinder you have, you may want to back out the regulator spring adjuster however... the factory manual shows a lower changeover pressure of 525 psi for a 914-6 (vs. 685 psi for the 914-4). Again, they are comparing 19mm MC vs. 17mm MC. The 914-6 has 48mm pistons up front and 38mm pistons in the rear. The main difference with your set-up is the pad size on the (wide) A-Caliper; it is larger than the 914-6 front M-Caliper. So again... you may want to back the regulator spring adjuster out a bit to compensate. This is tricky stuff and these are your brakes we're talking about, approach with knowledge and caution. I would have a friend with a video camera set up in an abandoned parking lot. Set up a panic stop staging area and let the video roll. Have a 5mm hex and a 13mm socket available to adjust the valve so the rears are never locked when the fronts are. You will have to break off the JB Weld type sealer the factory has around the adjustment rod to get everything to move (it is very brittle now and usually chips right off). I would back it out one turn at a time until the rears begin to lock. When they lock, screw it in 1/4 turn at a time until they no longer lock up. Once you have it adjusted, JB Weld it back in place and LEAVE IT ALONE. E. P.S. Fasteners and spacers from a 911 rear M-Caliper will make your 914-6 rear calipers 914-6/GT calipers. Vented rotors all around. Might be a nice upgrade. Remember... heavier rotating mass again (slight though). |
| 6freak |
Jul 17 2008, 02:06 PM
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#3
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MR.C ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 4,740 Joined: 19-March 08 From: Tacoma WA Member No.: 8,829 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
QUOTE Does anyone know a sucessful setup for up a system like mine (with much larger calipers in front) short of a front proportioning valve (I don't like that idea) or dual MC / balance bar setup? You have what are called "Wide A-Calipers" up front. This is a standard A-Caliper (very similar to what Jon has as well) with a wider spacer to accommodate the 24mm wide rotor. The standard A-Caliper that Jon has rests on the same 20mm 911 rotor that the M and S-Calipers went on. I reference Jon because he was asking a similar question over the phone a few minutes ago. While I personally think the A-Calipers are heavy, I like the 20mm vented rotor for many reasons. I'm not a fan of the Carrera system because I think it is too heavy for a 914 as there's generally too much rotating mass (24mm rotors) for such a light car BUT... that being said and the fact that you have the system and 914-6 rear calipers; let's review. The "bias" is generally set from the factory with piston and pad sizes. This is something that you've fallen off a bit by installing the Carrera calipers up front. The Carrera was the first car to get a larger 42mm piston in the rear, yet it was also the first 911 with a p-valve. The p-valve in a 914 will simply act as a safety feature under extreme braking. By turning the screw counter-clockwise you will take some preload off the regulator spring. This means your rear brakes will be engaged longer in the braking cycle before being shut off (not engaged) -or- you'll have to push harder on the pedal to get it to shut down (stop from braking) the rears. Ideally, you'll want your rear calipers to come loose as soon as the fronts shut down or lock. You never want your rears to lock on a 914. They should ride that ragged edge for best braking. Because A, S and M-Calipers with their 48mm pistons have been matched up with the rear M-Caliper with it's 38mm pistons on all 911's from 1969 through 1983 I still think you're OK with the brake bias that you have (your rear 914-6 calipers have the 38mm pistons). You just have huge front rotors. Depending on the master cylinder you have, you may want to back out the regulator spring adjuster however... the factory manual shows a lower changeover pressure of 525 psi for a 914-6 (vs. 685 psi for the 914-4). Again, they are comparing 19mm MC vs. 17mm MC. The 914-6 has 48mm pistons up front and 38mm pistons in the rear. The main difference with your set-up is the pad size on the (wide) A-Caliper; it is larger than the 914-6 front M-Caliper. So again... you may want to back the regulator spring adjuster out a bit to compensate. This is tricky stuff and these are your brakes we're talking about, approach with knowledge and caution. I would have a friend with a video camera set up in an abandoned parking lot. Set up a panic stop staging area and let the video roll. Have a 5mm hex and a 13mm socket available to adjust the valve so the rears are never locked when the fronts are. You will have to break off the JB Weld type sealer the factory has around the adjustment rod to get everything to move (it is very brittle now and usually chips right off). I would back it out one turn at a time until the rears begin to lock. When they lock, screw it in 1/4 turn at a time until they no longer lock up. Once you have it adjusted, JB Weld it back in place and LEAVE IT ALONE. E. P.S. Fasteners and spacers from a 911 rear M-Caliper will make your 914-6 rear calipers 914-6/GT calipers. Vented rotors all around. Might be a nice upgrade. Remember... heavier rotating mass again (slight though). I hope i dont have the same issues when i take all my calipers off ....and when bleeding the system i heard it was good to elevate the back off the car to help with the air in the P-valve?? |
Wanna9146 Swapping proportioning valve for "T" fitting... Jul 14 2008, 10:10 PM
ClayPerrine
I read on this forum recently about someone swapp... Jul 14 2008, 10:34 PM
smg914 You can also purchase the same "T" fitti... Jul 14 2008, 10:47 PM
Krieger914
You can also purchase the same "T" fitt... Jul 14 2008, 10:51 PM
Wanna9146
I upgraded front brakes to BWM calipers and did ... Jul 14 2008, 10:55 PM
r_towle
I upgraded front brakes to BWM calipers and did... Jul 15 2008, 09:25 AM
Wanna9146 The stock system is designed very well, and the Pr... Jul 15 2008, 09:50 AM
Wanna9146 Would it be P/N 914.355.667.00 ? Jul 14 2008, 10:54 PM
904svo Where at in Ga. do you live? I have a spare T you ... Jul 15 2008, 08:53 AM
Wanna9146
Where at in Ga. do you live? I have a spare T you... Jul 15 2008, 09:48 AM
904svo
Where at in Ga. do you live? I have a spare T yo... Jul 15 2008, 10:08 AM
Wanna9146
This T fitting was located in the front brake cir... Jul 15 2008, 10:10 AM
brant have fun spinning off the road backwards into the ... Jul 15 2008, 09:43 AM
Wanna9146
have fun spinning off the road backwards into the... Jul 15 2008, 09:51 AM
brant
have fun spinning off the road backwards into th... Jul 15 2008, 11:01 PM
rhodyguy i've never quite understood the reasoning for ... Jul 15 2008, 09:54 AM
Wanna9146
i've never quite understood the reasoning for... Jul 15 2008, 09:56 AM
rhodyguy ok. what do you figure a known good used valve cos... Jul 15 2008, 10:02 AM
Wanna9146
ok. what do you figure a known good used valve co... Jul 15 2008, 10:06 AM
Wanna9146
ok. what do you figure a known good used valve co... Jul 15 2008, 10:23 AM
rhodyguy happy motoring.
k Jul 15 2008, 10:09 AM
Wanna9146
happy motoring.
k
If I do this swap, I'll ... Jul 15 2008, 10:13 AM
SirAndy
Anyone taking bets that the car won't stop in... Jul 15 2008, 01:19 PM
Wanna9146
Anyone taking bets that the car won't stop i... Jul 15 2008, 08:15 PM
r_towle The proportioning valve is really a simple piston ... Jul 15 2008, 10:29 AM
Wanna9146
The proportioning valve is really a simple piston... Jul 15 2008, 10:37 AM
davesprinkle
The proportioning valve is really a simple piston... Jul 16 2008, 09:27 AM
brant its emergency situations when the brakes will surp... Jul 15 2008, 12:08 PM
sww914 I wouldn't automatically blame the proportioni... Jul 15 2008, 12:55 PM
Wanna9146
I wouldn't automatically blame the proportion... Jul 15 2008, 08:13 PM
sww914
I wouldn't automatically blame the proportio... Jul 15 2008, 08:23 PM
r_towle
The pedal is beyond "spongy". It goes a... Jul 15 2008, 08:25 PM
Wanna9146 Thanks, I'll give this a shot.
BUT
Try this ... Jul 15 2008, 09:25 PM
Lavanaut People here are trying to help you out with real, ... Jul 15 2008, 01:22 PM
jmill After doing quite a bit of research on this topic ... Jul 15 2008, 01:40 PM
Eric_Shea
Make sure your steering wheel is straight otherw... Jul 15 2008, 08:41 PM
Wanna9146 Thanks Eric, but don't worry about the "T... Jul 15 2008, 09:14 PM
Cap'n Krusty Spongy brakes after rebuilding the calipers is a p... Jul 15 2008, 09:02 PM
Wanna9146 If you go back and read, I only responded negative... Jul 15 2008, 09:16 PM
904svo Read this, It will explain the problems if you ins... Jul 15 2008, 09:58 PM
Eric_Shea Man I wish that article would go away but... it wo... Jul 15 2008, 10:29 PM
70Sixter Eric and brant both mentioned tapping on the p-val... Jul 16 2008, 09:31 AM
rhodyguy the adj valve is a SUPER idea! :headbanger: b... Jul 16 2008, 09:41 AM
roadster fan
the adj valve is a SUPER idea! :headbanger: ... Jul 16 2008, 03:37 PM
Eric_Shea Dave, did you get it working the way you'd lik... Jul 16 2008, 10:22 AM
SlackeR32 I don't mean to hijack, but since everyone is ... Jul 16 2008, 10:32 AM
Phoenix 914-6GT I have a T fiting in mine. What should I have?
I... Jul 16 2008, 06:19 PM
davesprinkle
(...lots of insightful braking stuff truncated h... Jul 17 2008, 10:26 AM
SlackeR32 Thank you Eric!
I was a bit confused at fir... Jul 17 2008, 01:03 PM
Eric_Shea
The threaded adjust rod simply rests against a h... Jul 17 2008, 07:34 PM![]() ![]() |
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