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VaccaRabite |
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En Garde! ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Admin Posts: 13,729 Joined: 15-December 03 From: Dallastown, PA Member No.: 1,435 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region ![]() ![]() |
So, using the long tubes method, I got my brakes bled tonight. The pedal is *really* solid.
But, when I went to each caliper, the Drivers front caliper was tight against the rotor. Passenger front was dragging, but not as much. Both rears were dragging a little. On each rotor I was able to turn it, and it started to come free. However, especially the drivers front, they are not free wheeling. The rears are easy, I just re-vent them. The fronts, though. Whats going on there? I was really stomping on the brakes getting the prop valve bled. I can't imagine that I damaged something. According to Haynes there is no front adjustment. What is to keep them from dragging? The pedal cluster has also been rebuilt and bushed with bronze bushings. Everything with the brakes has been renewed (rotors, pads, calipers [ E.Shea in the back, I rebuilt the front] hard lines, soft lines) except the prop valve (which does not need it). Zach |
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Eric_Shea |
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PMB Performance ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Admin Posts: 19,304 Joined: 3-September 03 From: Salt Lake City, UT Member No.: 1,110 Region Association: Rocky Mountains ![]() ![]() |
For 914 pistons I recommend brake cleaner and compressed air. For 911 pistons I recommend taking them out (very easy) and then the same method.
914 pistons are very difficult, if not impossible to get the mechanism out. The clips they use are fairly permenant and there aren't any new ones readily available. A good solvent soaking and compressed air is usually all that is needed. |
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