Front brake calipers dragging, Fresh rebuilt, just bled Options

[VaccaRabite]

So, using the long tubes method, I got my brakes bled tonight. The pedal is *really* solid.

But, when I went to each caliper, the Drivers front caliper was tight against the rotor. Passenger front was dragging, but not as much. Both rears were dragging a little. On each rotor I was able to turn it, and it started to come free. However, especially the drivers front, they are not free wheeling.

The rears are easy, I just re-vent them.
The fronts, though. Whats going on there?

I was really stomping on the brakes getting the prop valve bled. I can't imagine that I damaged something. According to Haynes there is no front adjustment. What is to keep them from dragging?

The pedal cluster has also been rebuilt and bushed with bronze bushings. Everything with the brakes has been renewed (rotors, pads, calipers [ E.Shea in the back, I rebuilt the front] hard lines, soft lines) except the prop valve (which does not need it).

Zach

[Eric_Shea]

Get the hone here:

www.mcmaster.com

6713A12
Clean-N-Polish Hone for Small Cylinder for 27/32"-2" Cylinder, 3 Stones, Medium 240 Grit
In stock at $14.84 Each

- or at your FLAPS for about $16.00. This will work with both your rears (33mm) and your fronts (42mm).


Get this grease gun:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/disp...?Itemnumber=219

- and remove the tip. The hose then screws into your caliper and you can literally pump the pistons out with the grease. I like Dave's "keep them on the car" tip as well. It cleans up much easier. Regardless you will have to formulate a rubber plug for the open piston bore once it comes out.

Cloth Wheel - yes, we use a cloth wheel on a bench top buffer and a mild polish to get the pistons to a mirror finish.

When you have the calipers out and apart you may wnt to consider finding a local plater to put a nice coat of zinc back on them:

http://maps.google.com/maps?rls=com.micros...esults&cd=1