FI fuel and wiring routing |
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FI fuel and wiring routing |
watsonrx13 |
Jul 21 2008, 06:20 AM
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#1
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 2,734 Joined: 18-February 03 From: Plant City, FL Member No.: 312 Region Association: South East States |
I've put my engine back in the car and want to confirm the FI fuel routing. I've looked at PP/Dave Darling's diagrams, but would like confirmation:
1. large (9mm) plastic fuel line from firewall connected to fuel filter 2. fuel filter connected to fuel pump at (S-suction) connection 3. (D-damper) connection on fuel pump connected to fuel rail on passenger side, rear connection 4. (R-return) connecton on fuel pump to Y connection 5. Y connection to small (7mm) plastic fuel line from firewall 6. Y connection to fuel pressure regulator 7. fuel rail on passenger side, front connection, to fuel rail on driver side, front connection 8. fuel rail on driver side, rear connection, to fuel pressure regulator 9. fuel rail on driver side, middle connection, to cold start valve. Also, I'd like confirmation on the electrical connection to the fuel pump: 1. black/red wire to the + side of fuel pump 2. brown wire to the - side of the fuel pump If I wanted to test the fuel pump outside of the car, I should be able to connect a positive wire to the + of the fuel pump, then to the + side of a battery, then - fuel pump to - battery. I could then connect the (S) fuel line and place in a container of gasoline. Then place the (D) and (-R-) fuel lines into an empty container. When I connect up the electrical lines, I should get the pump to hum and run fuel through the pump. Also, if I turn on the ignition, I should be able to get voltage across the black/red wire and the brown wire, correct? Finally, has anyone successfully found a shop that can rebuild these fuel pumps? -- Rob |
swl |
Jul 28 2008, 07:20 PM
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#2
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,409 Joined: 7-August 05 From: Kingston,On,Canada Member No.: 4,550 Region Association: Canada |
short answer is most likely contact resistance. Imperfect contact between two conductors caused by corrosion and crap.
You've traced it back to somewhere upstream of the fuse so there are two likely suspects. most likely is the fuse holder where it connects to the printed circuit board. I've been searching unsuccessfully for the thread where someone described how they had to repair that. Other possible is a bad contact on the 14pin connector at the top of the board. Pin 14 (left rear most) is where the power from the battery connects to the relay board. The last check before resigning to a board repair is to pull the 14 pin connector off and look at the condition of the contactors both on the plug and the receptical. Green stuff is bad. With the plug disconnected try your multimeter on resistance (ohms) in the lowest range and measure from pin 14 to the right side of the fuse holder. It should be damned near 0 (there is a zero adjust on your meter - make sure you use it 'cause we're dealing with small resistances) - you may have to scratch around with the probe a bit to get a good contact. If it is several ohms that would suggest the fuse holder as the source. If it is 0 then perhaps the contact was the problem and you should be able to clean it up with some emory cloth. |
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