FI fuel and wiring routing Options

[watsonrx13]

I've put my engine back in the car and want to confirm the FI fuel routing. I've looked at PP/Dave Darling's diagrams, but would like confirmation:



1. large (9mm) plastic fuel line from firewall connected to fuel filter
2. fuel filter connected to fuel pump at (S-suction) connection
3. (D-damper) connection on fuel pump connected to fuel rail on passenger side, rear connection
4. (R-return) connecton on fuel pump to Y connection
5. Y connection to small (7mm) plastic fuel line from firewall
6. Y connection to fuel pressure regulator
7. fuel rail on passenger side, front connection, to fuel rail on driver side, front connection
8. fuel rail on driver side, rear connection, to fuel pressure regulator
9. fuel rail on driver side, middle connection, to cold start valve.

Also, I'd like confirmation on the electrical connection to the fuel pump:

1. black/red wire to the + side of fuel pump
2. brown wire to the - side of the fuel pump

If I wanted to test the fuel pump outside of the car, I should be able to connect a positive wire to the + of the fuel pump, then to the + side of a battery, then - fuel pump to - battery. I could then connect the (S) fuel line and place in a container of gasoline. Then place the (D) and (-R-) fuel lines into an empty container. When I connect up the electrical lines, I should get the pump to hum and run fuel through the pump.

Also, if I turn on the ignition, I should be able to get voltage across the black/red wire and the brown wire, correct?

Finally, has anyone successfully found a shop that can rebuild these fuel pumps?

-- Rob

[swl]

short answer is most likely contact resistance. Imperfect contact between two conductors caused by corrosion and crap.

You've traced it back to somewhere upstream of the fuse so there are two likely suspects.

most likely is the fuse holder where it connects to the printed circuit board. I've been searching unsuccessfully for the thread where someone described how they had to repair that.

Other possible is a bad contact on the 14pin connector at the top of the board. Pin 14 (left rear most) is where the power from the battery connects to the relay board.

The last check before resigning to a board repair is to pull the 14 pin connector off and look at the condition of the contactors both on the plug and the receptical. Green stuff is bad. With the plug disconnected try your multimeter on resistance (ohms) in the lowest range and measure from pin 14 to the right side of the fuse holder. It should be damned near 0 (there is a zero adjust on your meter - make sure you use it 'cause we're dealing with small resistances) - you may have to scratch around with the probe a bit to get a good contact. If it is several ohms that would suggest the fuse holder as the source. If it is 0 then perhaps the contact was the problem and you should be able to clean it up with some emory cloth.

[watsonrx13]

short answer is most likely contact resistance. Imperfect contact between two conductors caused by corrosion and crap.

You've traced it back to somewhere upstream of the fuse so there are two likely suspects.

most likely is the fuse holder where it connects to the printed circuit board. I've been searching unsuccessfully for the thread where someone described how they had to repair that.

Other possible is a bad contact on the 14pin connector at the top of the board. Pin 14 (left rear most) is where the power from the battery connects to the relay board.

The last check before resigning to a board repair is to pull the 14 pin connector off and look at the condition of the contactors both on the plug and the receptical. Green stuff is bad. With the plug disconnected try your multimeter on resistance (ohms) in the lowest range and measure from pin 14 to the right side of the fuse holder. It should be damned near 0 (there is a zero adjust on your meter - make sure you use it 'cause we're dealing with small resistances) - you may have to scratch around with the probe a bit to get a good contact. If it is several ohms that would suggest the fuse holder as the source. If it is 0 then perhaps the contact was the problem and you should be able to clean it up with some emory cloth.

OK, time to report back....

Steve, since you mentioned that one of the red wires comes off of the battery, I check for power at the 14 pin connector. I was only getting 7 v. I checked all of the red wires at the battery and one of the round clips fell off and there was a lot of corrosion/green stuff. I cleaned and/or replaced and then bolted them back to the battery. I then check the 14 pin connector and was now getting 8 v. I took the 14 pin connector cap off then cleaned around the pin. When I checked the pin on the connector I got 8 v, but when I checked the wire to the pin I got almost 10 v.

So my question is, how do I clean the pin holders in the connector and how do I clean the wires at the pin holders?

BTW, I checked ohms between the 14th pin and the right side of the fuse and got 0.002. So, I'm feeling that the relay board is probably good, but there's something wrong with the wiring. Also, someone else had already gotten to the 14 pin connector, because the casing around the wires had been sliced, then taped back up. Oh, and I rechecked the right side of the fuse holder and was getting almot 10 v and I cleaned the fuse holder prongs.

Any other suggestions?

-- Rob