The start of my 2.0 build, and also the start of my questions |
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The start of my 2.0 build, and also the start of my questions |
MrKona |
Dec 14 2007, 09:19 PM
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#1
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 597 Joined: 25-July 05 From: Santa Rosa, CA Member No.: 4,469 Region Association: None |
I talked about building up a 2.0 last winter, and now I'm finally going to do it. This is my first engine build, hence it'll be conservative and relatively stock. My only plan with the car is to have a nice, reliable, well constructed engine. I thought about a 2056, but I finally decided to stay with 94mm cylinders. I really don't want to have to tweak with FI or fiddle with cam selection right now. I've read that Jake's 9550 cam is excellent, but also that it produced dirty emissions. I'd like to keep this engine as clean as a type 4 can be. I'm also a little confused if Jake is even selling cams at the moment, so I've just decided to go with a stock grind.
My current engine is a PO rebuilt 1.8 with hydraulic lifters (with one that won't prime, sounds horrible, I can't wait to be done with them). Highlights: GA case Stock displacement (with new Euro spec pistons) Stock grind Webcam and with solid lifters (both new) For now, I'm going to cannibalize the rebuilt 1.8 heads from my current engine, unless I find a deal on decent rebuild 2.0 heads during the build. I would love to buy a pair of Raby heads, just can't swallow the extra two grand at the moment. L-jet fuel injection from my 1.8. (I have some issues to work out here, running really rich. No vacuum leaks that I can find. I have to check the fuel pressure - I'm thinking either AFM or pressure regulator as next areas to check). From what I've read on many threads here and other sites, the L-jet can handle up to a 2056 displacement. I'll keep this thread updated this winter as I work through this rebuild. I don't know how long a project this will be or how quickly I may get it done. Current progress: Jake Raby rebuild DVD - Check. Tom Wilson's book - Check. I've split the case and and planning on bringing the case, crank, and rods for reconditioning to Dan Hall's Machine Shop here in Portland. After reading various forums, this appears to be the Type IV specialist in this area. Brand new Euro-spec P/C set - Check! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) So now for my first question: Regarding the existing cylinder studs, Tom Wilson writes, "Unless you're installing case savers, don't remove the cylinder studs from the case. Doing so has no purpose, but does wear the potentially troublesome case threads, takes time, and stresses the studs" (p. 76). In the assembly section, he states "If the cylinder studs were removed for some reason, install them now. Apply Permatex 3H to their threads to stop oil leaks" (p. 120). I don't know the history of this case. I don't know if there was leakage at the head studs. Should I remove the studs, and reinstall with Permatex (after the case comes back from the machine shop, obviously) as a precaution to prevent potential leakage? Or should I just leave them be as is? Does it really put that much stress on the case to remove them, or is Wilson referring primarily to the Type I-III magnesium cases? I am leaning to toward remove and reinstall, as I strongly intend for this engine to be leak-free. Lastly, as I work through this process, I welcome and encourage comments. Please, if you see something I'm doing wrong, or have advice for me, give it to me! I can probably use it! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif) Attached image(s) |
MrKona |
Aug 4 2008, 02:03 AM
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#2
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 597 Joined: 25-July 05 From: Santa Rosa, CA Member No.: 4,469 Region Association: None |
It's been awhile since I posted any progress. By no means have I lost interest in this project. Just some delays due to competing priorities... sound familiar? The engine has been sitting under plastic in the garage, waiting for me to work on it again. I set up the valvetrain geometry this weekend. I've read Jakes article many times, and searched on this site for some great information. I used an adjustable pushrod to calculate all the pushrod lengths for each valve, and have cut four. I started getting a little fatigued earlier tonight so I figured it was time to call it a night.
A couple details: Solid spacers and swivel head adjusters. I sanded down some of the adjusters with very fine sand paper as some of the rockers fit pretty tight when first mocked the assemblies on the case. I've got them so they rock smoothly with no side to side play. Steel pushrods. I cut them with a small pipe cutter and finished off with a grinder, deburred with a small file. Blew them clean with carb cleaner and compressed air. I had two old lifters that I used to hold the ends while I tapped in the pushrod tip. My set up, as you can see is just a steel plate (the piece I used as a crank holder earlier in the build). Worked great to mount the magnetic dial indicator stand. All measurements at full lift are within +/- 5% lift specs for the 9550 cam. At half lift, the valves and adjusters are about as straight as I can possibly see: Assemble, measure, disassemble, adjust, reassemble, repeat... Lot's of fun! Here's a couple random pictures from the process: Attached thumbnail(s) |
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