Electrical problems Options

[watsonrx13]

I've been trying to track down an electrical problem with my FI and I've found more problems.

1. When I turn on the ignition switch I blow fuse #9. The Haynes manual says that this fuse powers the turn signals, brake lights and back-up lights. Also, I noticed that the buzzer sounds when I turn on the key, regardless of both doors closed or open. Anyway, I disconnected the brake light switch at the brake pedal, all of the wires to the turn signals and disconnected the back-up light wire at the tranny but the fuse still blows, which then stops the buzzer.

2. No power to the coil. I've replaced the ignition switch with another one, but I'm still not getting any power at the coil. I've checked the continuity between the ignition switch and the coil.

I have power to all pin #30s on the relay board in the engine compartment. I have power at the large red wire at the ignition switch.

I feel that I'm very close to getting this car running, but with these electrical gremlins I'm extremely frustrated...(IMG:style_emoticons/default/mad.gif)

Any suggestions and/or guidance would be greatly appreciated....

-- Rob

[904svo]

Try this remove fuse #9, using a volt meter or trouble light check
1. Turn on key, one side of the fuse should have 12 volts on it (Black wires on it)
these wires go to the ingition swich and to the relay board which supply power to the coil and other relays. If this is OK check the following

2. Problem must be on the black/yellow wire ( brake switch) or
the red/white wires which power the gauges and the emergency flasher switch
if you disconnect these wires and reattatched them one at a time you can find
out which wire is causing you a problem which you can track down the problem.

hope this helps you

[watsonrx13]

Thanks everyone for your replies...

Try this remove fuse #9, using a volt meter or trouble light check
1. Turn on key, one side of the fuse should have 12 volts on it (Black wires on it)
these wires go to the ingition swich and to the relay board which supply power to the coil and other relays. If this is OK check the following

2. Problem must be on the black/yellow wire ( brake switch) or
the red/white wires which power the gauges and the emergency flasher switch
if you disconnect these wires and reattatched them one at a time you can find
out which wire is causing you a problem which you can track down the problem.

hope this helps you

1. I'll check this circuit and report back later today...

2. I should disconnect the black/yellow wire at the brake switch on the brake pedal? I should disconnect the red/white wires at the head light switch in the dash? I should disconnect the red/white wire at the emergency flasher switch in the dash?

What year car is it?
Does it have the logic circuit under the passenger seat???
Rich

Sorry, it's a '74 2.0l and I've already bypassed the passenger seat circuit...

It almost sounds like you might have multiple problems. 904svo's advice sounds pretty good to me. The routing of the power for the coilis really straight forward. from the switch to fuse s9 then back to the relay board. The power does not go through the fuse. It is only a connection point. On the relay board that power should be present on pin 8 of the 14 pin connector, pin 7 of the 12 pin connector and on pin 85 of both the main power and heater blower relays. Take out fuse 9 and work on the coil cct first - it will help keep things a little more simple.

Again to simplify things - take the power lead off the coil while you are doing your trouble shooting

So, I should take the fuse out of #9, turn on the ignition switch and check power at pin 8 of 14, pin 7 of 12 and pin 85 of relay 74. When I check the pins of the connectors, should I have the connectors installed in the relay board with the cover off or just pull the connectors and check the pins? Should I pull the relay and check the socket or wrap a wire around the pin, reinstall the relay and check power then?

sounds like you have a direct short. since the turn/brake lights are in the curcuit, have you messed with the bulbs previous to the problem? a 1156 inserted 180* off will do odd things. how about the 1156 in the 1157 spot or visa-versa? been there, done that, got the t-shirt

mike

I haven't messed with any of the bulbs, but I did clean up all of the sockets prior to reinstallation....

Something else that I just remembered, all of the light circuits were working well and no issues with the fuses prior to me dropping the engine/tranny. This problem only came up once I reinstalled, so, is it possible that I might have pinched a wire somewhere when I reinstalled the engine? If so, do I need to drop the engine and recheck all of the wire?

-- Rob

[swl]

So, I should take the fuse out of #9, turn on the ignition switch and check power at pin 8 of 14, pin 7 of 12 and pin 85 of relay 74. When I check the pins of the connectors, should I have the connectors installed in the relay board with the cover off or just pull the connectors and check the pins? Should I pull the relay and check the socket or wrap a wire around the pin, reinstall the relay and check power then?

I would start with one of the relays since that is easiest. Just take it out and measure at the socket. If no joy there, disconnect the 14 pin and look for power on pin 8 of the wiring harness. If still no joy go back and measure the black wires attached to fuse 9.