Painting inside the longs, access through the hell hole Options

[ahdoman]

I did an extensive search to no avail...I thought I remember someone mentioning a way to be able to spray paint (POR 15 or other rust treatment) inside the longs just by making a small access hole? I need to close up my hell hole repair but before I do I would like to spray rust treatment into the long. Thankfully the long is not rusted but I can see surface rust down in there. Anybody got any suggestions? A list of parts to do that would be great!

[shoguneagle]

Hi,

I may be the one your are referring to painting Por-15 into the longs and related sections. I used the Por-15 System which is important since Por-15 is only a rust inhibitor/encapulsing systme. This mean you have to treat the metal with a Phosphoric Acid solution (Metal Etch, Ospho, etc) with has to have the metal cleaned with a prep solution. After all the foregoing is done then you have to flush and dry the inter longs and related areas with water, air, drainage, etc making sure you get as much water out as possible. Then the Por-15 is applied through holes that are available or that have to be drilled. As long as the Por-15 does not get any sunlight (UV rays) it should not break down. On surfaces exposed to UV light or where additional paint is to be applied, you should use Por-15 primer and then paint.

I used the Por-15 System and drilled holes following ones that I needed and using the information that Andy provided regarding the hole placement. It was applied with a low pressure direct nozzle air gun I bought from the local paint and used the short extention. The wands that others mentioned are just too small orfice for the Por-15 inhibitor to flow through.

The information Andy has provide is crucial to understanding the different areas where you put the rust inhibitor.

As far as the longs go, I was interested in the weld areas as well as the inner long since I had added stress kitting on each long. I welded on the Brad Mayuer long kit as well as the inner long kit from Engman(??).
Weldable primer was used as the first line of defense against rust, then the Phosphoric Acit solution after washing. Washed and dried the areas with air, etc. then applied the Por-15 inhibitor.

I drilled something like 20 half-inch holes in what I thought were critical areas and where I sprayed into the areas. These were determined by the spray pattern of the gun I used, the physical arrangement of the underlying metals, etc. I also had replaced the floorboards which gave me additional open areas in the central tunnel, access to the stress points on the car, and other related items. I have not done the blind areas yet since I was only interested at this point the areas where the car was connected and had frame/suspension stress points. The blind points as per the information provided by Andy will be followed.

There are many good systems and they all follow the above process.

In direct open areas I always go back to the rust treatment of "Naval Jelley". This has been a round a long time and contains the Phosphoric Acid solution. First is to clean as much rust out as one can, treat the metal per directions which turns the rust into black iron oxide (this what the Phosphoric Acid does); wash after treatment, paint with zinc chromate primer, paint with etching primer, paint.

A little long winded and as always do your own research to where you are satisfied.

Good luck and enjoy the project.

An after thought, be sure to use protective clothing, breather, gloves, etc and follow all the safety/health items. These solutions/paints can cause damage and health problems. If you let Por-15 dry on your skin, you will wear it for up to six weeks. Just ask me how I know even when wearing protective clothing.

Steve Hurt