FI assistance, High idle |
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FI assistance, High idle |
watsonrx13 |
Sep 2 2008, 06:15 PM
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#1
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 2,734 Joined: 18-February 03 From: Plant City, FL Member No.: 312 Region Association: South East States |
OK, I have finally gotten my second project car running.... The first time since I've owned the car (purchased 2 1/2 years ago)... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif)
Anyway, I've done the following to the '74 2.0l engine: New: Spark plugs and wires Distributor cap Points and condensor Vacuum and fuel hoses Intake runner boots Other: Tested and rebuilt fuel injectors and new seals Timed the engine Adjusted the valves I hooked all vacuum hoses, per AA's diagram. When I started it, it ran at 3000 rpm. I disconnected the AAR and plugged the hoses. I've gotten it down to 1500 rpm, but it was 'hunting'. I soaked the AAR valve overnight and washed out the PCV with carb cleaner. I hooked both back up, but it ran at 3000 rpm again. So my questions are: 1. How do I test the AAR valve to verify it's working? 1a. If I remove it permanently, do I just plug the line to the CSV and wrap the electrical wire (the plastic plug is missing)? 2. I've ordered the TB gasket, do I need to remove the runners before I remove the TB/base? 3. After I remove the TB/base and check for pin holes, anything else to check? 4. Any other suggestions? 4a. BTW, I tried spraying carb cleaner around the TB, injectors, runners, but didn't hear any difference in the engine sound. Also, I researched this subject and found Jack's (championgt1) posting, but there was no resolution, at least in that thread... -- Rob |
watsonrx13 |
Sep 14 2008, 04:05 PM
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#2
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 2,734 Joined: 18-February 03 From: Plant City, FL Member No.: 312 Region Association: South East States |
SUCCESS
The engine is now idling at 900 rpm. I want to thank everyone who contributed to the success of this...(IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif) Using Jim's (roadster fan) suggestions I was able to successfully get the engine to run correctly, here's his suggestions and my solutions: 1. Intake runner-to-head gasket/spacer created new gaskets 2. Injector seals sent injectors to Cruizn Performance for testing and rebuilding, including new seals 3. Intake runner boots new boots from AA 4. Air plenum (e.g. cracks or rust holes) inspected, but didn't find and holes. Used JB Weld to seal the support tubes where they attach to the plenum 5. Throttle body gasket new from tod914 6. Throttle body shaft (worn body or shaft) looks good 7. Distributor vacuum adv/ret cell new hose 8. Auxiliary air regulator (stuck open or leaky) soaked in PB blaster to free up stuck valve 9. Deceleration valve added a hose clamp to the smallest hose that connects to 'F' connection on the TB 10. Manifold pressure sensor tested MPS, held vacuum between 25-30 hg 11. Vacuum hose cracks replaced ALL vacuum hoses from AA |
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