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kfieler |
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#1
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kfieler ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 71 Joined: 26-July 07 From: Southern California (Mojave Desert) Member No.: 7,949 ![]() |
Hello! I have a 1973 1.7 with an ignition problem... when I turn the ignition key to start, the engine does not crank. I have a couple of questions, but first the background...
The car has a new ignition switch, a new trunk-to-trans ground strap, new negative battery cable, and new (rebuilt) starter. I cannot start the car with the key (ignition switch)... the only way I can start the car is by turning the key then "jumping" the solenoid at the starter (all that proves is that I have a good ground, a good starter and good + running to the starter). The car started fine (for about 3 months) after I installed a brand new starter switch then, once in a while, I'd have to turn the key a few times for the starter to kick-over. Eventually, the car would not start at all with the key. The solenoid wire is plugged into the starter and looks to be a good connection. Question: Is it likely that my new ignition switch went bad in such a short period of time? Question: There is a "seatbelt idiot light" on the dashboard, but I've never seen it come on (with or without passenger in car or seatbelts on or off). In a 1973 1.7, is the seatbelt idiot light a "passive" system or could I have a seatbelt problem (i.e. under the passenger seat) that is keeping my starter from starting? Question: On a 1973 1.7, is there anything (like a relay or fuse) between the battery, starter switch and solenoid that I need to look for (i.e. is there a starter relay under the dash)? Thanks in advance for any troubleshooting help ideas you can provide. I am tired of reaching under the car every time I want to start it! :-) |
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gdonahoe |
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#2
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Member ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 71 Joined: 2-June 05 From: Fountain Valley, CA Member No.: 4,186 Region Association: None ![]() |
Kfieler,
After you remove the plastic ignition switch from the lock and tumbler assembly, plug the plastic switch back into the female socket under the dash. First look at the back of the female socket and make sure that the female terminal for the big yellow wire has not pushed back and is fully engaged with the male terminal. If all is good then try turning the switch with a small flat bladed screwdriver all the way clockwise and see if it now sends power to the big yellow wire. If not the switch is likely bad. If it does now send power to the big yellow wire your plastic switch is likely good. You might need to replace the lock and tumbler. I recently did this on my car because my lock and tumbler had worn to the point that it did not have enough travel to make contact inside the plastic switch. Hope this helps. |
HeloMech |
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#3
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Go Ahead, Get Pistoph! ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 691 Joined: 31-August 05 From: Roy, WA Member No.: 4,718 Region Association: Southern California ![]() |
I recently did this on my car because my lock and tumbler had worn to the point that it did not have enough travel to make contact inside the plastic switch. Hope this helps. My '73 1.7 had this problem. The DAPO had just turned the ignition to ON and then used this big button under the dash to engage the starter. I ordered a new ignition switch (electronic portion) and installed it. Still wouldn't kick the starter over. I pulled the ignition switch (mechanical portion with keylock, etc) out and turned the key. It wasn't traveling far enough to kick the electronic portion into the START mode. I just took the dremel out and cleared away more of the path for the mechanical turning portion to allow longer travel... that allowed it to turn the switch part to the START area... Not sure why the tumbler section didn't turn far enough. Either it was a later model? The new electronic switches were a bad batch? I dunno? But that worked for me. Try plugging in the new switch and turning it with a screwdriver and see if it works. If it does, grind out part of the tumbler doohickey... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif) |
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