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dbgriffith75 |
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TheGrif ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 509 Joined: 25-July 07 From: Iowa, USA Member No.: 7,945 Region Association: Upper MidWest ![]() |
Okay, this time I'm not trying to argue as to what gauge sheetmetal should be used for the repair, I promise (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
But I've been mulling it over the last few days as to how I should go about installing the replacement panel once it's fabricated and ready for installation. If you check out my porsche pics (link in my sig) and look at pic#5, you can see where I'm going to need to do a little repair on the firewall as well, so I'm considering this in these drawings. I've come up with a couple of different options, see below: ![]() For some reason paint is being gay and not letting me add text into the pic, but here's a "key" for them: The dotted black lines is the chunk to be replaced. The blue lines denote replacement panel and where they cross at the ends is what will be plug welds. I'd be drilling through both the replacement panel and the part of the engine shelf/firewall to accomplish this. And just to be clear, I will be cutting out the old sheet metal to be replaced, not just leaving it there. Option 1: Plug weld support shims to the engine shelf and firewall, then do the same for the replacement panel. I'd also weld the seam where the new and old sheet metal meet. Afterwards, I'd grind down the welds for a virtually seamless repair. The advantage to this option is that when it's all said and done and the painting is finished, it would be difficult to tell that any repair work has been done; but it would be more time consuming. Option 2: Instead of support shims, I'd simply overlap the replacement panel on top of the old sheet metal, then drill and plug weld the overlap. But I'd still also weld the seams on top; and again grind for as seamless a look as I can get. However, with this option, it would be easier to tell that repair work had been done; and would save some time in doing the repair. So which option do you guys think would be the best? Or is there a better way to do it? Thanks! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif) |
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2-OH! |
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#2
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Senior Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 552 Joined: 17-October 03 From: Santa Clarita, Kalifornication Member No.: 1,253 ![]() |
From looking at pic #5, it looks to me like the top of your Long is rotted...That's usual...
Take a Dremmel tool and the flex wand that fits onto it and about a 100 of those small cutting disc (because it's the only thing that will fit down in there) and cut away the old rusted portion until you get to at lease solid metal...Including the top of the long... The benefit of doing this is to allow you to see down into the long...That way you can determine what you need to do next... It is easier for me to make a few small patches that fit correctly than to make one big one and try to bend/shape it into place... DO NOT just try to cover this area with new sheet metal...Go down inside and fix it correctly... The Long is a much heavier gauge than the skin, so when replacing it, use metal that is at least as thick or thicker to repair it...This is the main structural piece for the car... RE 2-OH! |
SirAndy |
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#3
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Resident German ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Admin Posts: 42,245 Joined: 21-January 03 From: Oakland, Kalifornia Member No.: 179 Region Association: Northern California ![]() |
DO NOT just try to cover this area with new sheet metal...Go down inside and fix it correctly... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) |
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