A WARNING and a Question... Options

[NineOneFour]

I bought a carb sync on eBay for my 44's. I was looking at the Synchrometer STE SK, they were all about the same price and shipping costs. I found a place that was close to me and would only take 2 days to get the sync to me at no extra cost through USPS so I chose that vender.

2 days later I'm unwrapping the sync and going to work. I do a prelim check and the barrel for #1 is drawing half as much as the other 3. I do a little adjusting the motor smooths out a bit I check again and #1 still drawing WAY less than the other 3 (That'll be the question part) ANYWAY As I pulled the syc of the #1 again I here the sound of something metallic bouncing on the tin. I look around and find the small brass counter weight that's on the inside of the sync... I was soooo luck that the weight fell out just outside of the carb and not inside carb with the motor running.

This is the weight.
(IMG:http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u227/RStanlow/Stuff/Car%20Stuff/914/Sync003s.jpg)

And this is where it goes in the sync.
(IMG:http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u227/RStanlow/Stuff/Car%20Stuff/914/Sync007.jpg)

(IMG:http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u227/RStanlow/Stuff/Car%20Stuff/914/Sync013.jpg)

I checked the sync and upon close inspection it was not a made in Germany STE SK, it was a knock off made in China. They looked EXACTLY alike with the exception of the "STE" in the right hand bottom corner, which was missing from the one that I purchased. I looked at the site that I bought it from, they use the same SK or BK designation with the same model numbers but never said it was a STE. I called the vendor and he agreed to refund my money.

I called around to a few shops in So Cal and they said that most shops are selling the knock off, instead of the real thing. More money in it for them...

My suggestion is that if you own one of these knock off sync's... get rid of it. It's better to go out and spend $40 bucks on a real STE than rebuilding your motor.

Now, back to the question part. Why do you think the #1 barrel is flowing half of what the others are?

Thanks

[jmill]

I dont care for the fancy stuff because the only way to adjust the needle is to bust out little plastic holes. I've found that to get a good reading at higher RPMs you have to bust out so many that the idle reading doesn't register. It's funny that everyone prefers different tools to do the same job. Some do it better than others. Some claim their experts because they have a fancy tool. If you adjust the uni-syn so it reads in the lower part of the scale you'll have plenty of flow. I never liked the idea of having the carb breathe though a bunch of plastic. It seems that would clog things up worse. Maybe swallow up a little piece of garbage with a brand new engine? No thanks.

Don't bottom out the air bypass screws. Seat them gently and then set them all at one half turn out. Turn them from there and don't go over 1 1/2 turns out. Before you play around with them make sure the 2 throats closest to the linkage flow the same. If they don't your linkage is jazzed or you have to tweak the idle screw.

The initial butterfly adjustment should be .004". Set that with your idle screws. Once it's running good you can back them off to drop your idle speed down. You don't have to do this but it will run alot better at first. After doing it a few times I just make sure both sides are closed the same and open at exactly the same time.