My next car, GT40 |
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My next car, GT40 |
Randal |
Jan 31 2009, 11:32 PM
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#21
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 4,446 Joined: 29-May 03 From: Los Altos, CA Member No.: 750 |
We had lunch today at the local Houfbrau in Redwood City.
Right across the street is a new auto dealer that is selling the GT 40's made in South Africa. They had GT 40's, Daytona Cobras as well as normal Cobras in stock. I went over there with my mechanical genius friend Paul, who really does know what he is doing, and we were both very very impressed. They had 5 GT 40's in stock. These cars are being build under license from whoever (Ford I guess) using the original designs, but updated for all new things, like brakes, etc. These SuperPerformance cars are simly beautiful, where ever you look. And at $75,000 for a roller an absoulte steal. All you have to do is put in a motor and transmission and your away. After you see one of these cars, you will never use the word "kit car" again. I got to build one of these with an all aluminum 427 with about 600hp. Probably a good hillclimb car at only 2200#'s. Those aluminum 427's weigh less than 400# and can put out 575hp or more. Big slicks, 2200#, 600HP, mid engine with great brakes and suspension. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif) |
byndbad914 |
Feb 2 2009, 11:20 PM
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#22
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shoehorn and some butter - it fits Group: Members Posts: 1,547 Joined: 23-January 06 From: Broomfield, CO Member No.: 5,463 Region Association: None |
that will depend highly on parts choices and usage desires - you want a streetable car that you can track here and there, or a track engine? The track engine would make more than 600HP easily but could be detuned down to that with the cam selection.
To make around 600HP with a "streetable" you could use the CHI heads out of Australia (bitchin' heads and have won the Engine Masters Challenge a few years now on Fords around 400-430ci) and their single plane intake, a decent sized hyd roller camshaft (around 250 at 0.050" duration, large ratio rockers to get lift up around 0.800"), 4" stroke crank - the mo' betta' (lighter especially) the mo' $$, quality H-beam rod (or I-beam for more power or lighter weight), custom piston for compression desire/valve lift, so forth. Start looking at Crower cranks and rods, etc it gets pricey. A good race engine would be the Crower or similar quality crank, the light/strong I-beam rods, solid roller with around 265/275deg @ 0.050", ti valves on the intakes, etc but should be around 750-800HP. Bryant cranks are very light for instance but big bucks... I had guys spend close to $5K on Bryant cranks for serious circle track engines I built. I would guess around $15-17K for the 600HP combo with a dry sump (alum blocks typically are set up for that only) and more like $20K with the full race, but it has been awhile since I priced all that stuff. The alum block is spendy and comes completely "raw" so has to be fully machined. I would also bush the lifter bores. The alum block may always require roller cam bearings as well (I am not sure but I think there are blocks with standard cam bores - I always used roller cam bearing in the high end combos) If you go with an aftermarket iron block you can save a little cash on not bushing lifter bores, cheaper base price. edit - missed where you asked about the other stuff... I had one Pantera guy with a full Motec setup and it was nice, but again, spendy but just like a Porsche with Motec. Other options exist of course and are nice/cheaper. As for boost, that is no problem, built more than a few of that type of combo for twin turbo Panteras. edit2 - compare this stuff to the price of a well built -6 Porsche engine and you will find you make plenty more HP, reliably, for less $. |
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