Building strong 914 tranny, Which are the most important items? Options

[dkjens]

So, I just picked up another 914 tranny, so now I have the one in my '73 and this newly acquired tranny. I will have a local shop owner and really great friend build me one good 914 tranny with the gear spacing for V8s. What can I do (spend) money on during this transmission rebuild to make it as strong as possible, in addition to the billet intermediate plate?

I figure we'll take both trannys apart, lay out the gears, synchros etc., pick the best parts (hope both 2nd gear sets are in good shape), 1st and 2nd stays stock, reversed 4th becomes 3rd, reversed 3rd becomes 4th and reversed 2nd becomes new 5th. New bearings and synchros if needed, although they work fine in the tranny in my car.

So, definately, the billet intermediat plate, there's $400.00, do I need oil cooler/pump and which system would be the best bang for the buck?

The car is/will be a fun street car, 911SC brakes all around, Kennedy 9" clutch, at the moment mild Chevy 283 (est. 200-250HP) but later in the year Chevy 350 (400-500HP) so may look for ceramic clutch plate (with springs if possible for a little engage slippage). I have never been on the track so I can guarantee that I am a lot less agressive driver than most on this board (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif)

[Bruce Hinds]

350 and 327 were both a 4" bore and the difference in the stroke was 1/4". 3.5 vs 3.25 respectivly. Some of the engines had a large or small journals on the crank and some had 4 bolt main caps and some two.

4 bolt bottom is better and you can make a 327 with a 350 block and a 305 or a 307 crank, not sure which one it was. Any of the chevy builders can tell you and I'm sure you can find out on line. OOps, don't forget to consider rod length!

B

[messix]

350 and 327 were both a 4" bore and the difference in the stroke was 1/4". 3.5 vs 3.25 respectivly. Some of the engines had a large or small journals on the crank and some had 4 bolt main caps and some two.

4 bolt bottom is better and you can make a 327 with a 350 block and a 305 or a 307 crank, not sure which one it was. Any of the chevy builders can tell you and I'm sure you can find out on line. OOps, don't forget to consider rod length!

B

i gotta correct some things here...

the early 327 had a 2.30 main bearing as opposed to the later sbc 2.45 all 350 and any other sb built after 1967, the 400 block was even larger at 2.65.

the stroke of the 350 and 305 is 3.48 not 3.5 .

while the 307 had a 3.25 stroke, it was a only had as a cast iron crank. that is why the 283 which is a forged steel piece is the great deal.

rod length for all but the 400 are 5.7. the 400 uses a 5.565 rod.


the short stroke of the 3.0 stroke allows for a sweet high reving motor and this can be built on a 2 bolt main for "street use" this would not survive a racing enviroment. i wish i could write this the same way that i could say it. a short stroke engine doesn't have to "throw" the rod/piston as far and a hard as the long stroke engine does. this doesn't stress the crank or block as much, so a 2 bolt main would be fine and still rev to 6,000 + with heads and a stable valve train.
new desings in valve springs and cam profiles along with the other peices are not super expensive and moderate priced stuff with last just fine on the street.

now i have to say that all this is on the first gen sbc, the lt series and ls series have there own unique set ups.


edit: all 283's had steel froged cranks that's another thing that makes them good.