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> Door gaps are not even any more!, Now what???
FourBlades
post Apr 4 2009, 01:31 PM
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I was test fitting my doors before painting them and noticed this:

Driver side.

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Passenger side.



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charliew
post Apr 5 2009, 12:13 PM
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About thirty years ago I torch welded the floors in a early military jeep. I did a lot of welding without stopping at first. I welded a seam about a foot long and steped back and admired my progress and it seemed ok. After moving to the other side to do another I got about 1/2 way through and heard a loud pop like someone hit it with a hammer and the first side split about 6 inches beside the weld. Being a stubborn sob I immediately rewelded it and went back to the side I had moved to. When I finished the second side 12 inches the first side poped again so I stopped and had a dr pepper and cussed a little. From then on if I couldn't put my hand on it it didn't get welded. You can take a 2 inch piece of pipe 20 ft long and weld a 12 bead along the top side and stand back and watch it bow down.
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Wes V
post Apr 6 2009, 09:08 AM
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I'm trying to get my mind around this whole "shrinkage" thing, so I'm going to post this to try to make it clearer. (in my simple mind)

Let's pretend that we take a 3 foot long length of 4" square tube and support it on it's ends (just sitting on saw horses). To keep it simple, let's assume that it has no weight.

A torch is used to heat the top of the tube till red.

While hot, the top of the tube expands and the tube bends with the center moving upward.

It's allowed to cool down slowly and no force is applied to it.

As it cools, the metal contracts and the center "bump" goes down.

I was under the impression that it would not go all the way back down to level and most assuredly wouldn't go lower. Am I wrong here?? (the closing of the door gap at it's top would indicate I'm wrong)


To further this;

Let's assume that we start with a new tube.

Heat the top with the torch until red and then while still hot, throw cold water on it.

Prior to cooling it off fast, the center would have moved upward. Cooling it off fast would result in it contracting more, and would result in a downward bend. Once again, am I wrong here??



What I'm trying to get clear in my mind is what is happening while welding on the top surface of the Engman angle. My guess is that depending on how the car is supported, the gap at the top of the door would open while the welding is hot, and then closes up while the weld cools off.

Wes







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Posts in this topic
FourBlades   Door gaps are not even any more!   Apr 4 2009, 01:31 PM
FourBlades   The gaps were ok before I welded in my Engman kit....   Apr 4 2009, 01:35 PM
ConeDodger   The gaps were ok before I welded in my Engman kit...   Apr 4 2009, 01:48 PM
SirAndy   I have also heard of putting bracing in the door ...   Apr 4 2009, 02:02 PM
SirAndy   Now WTF do I do??? Put the car on a lift, open t...   Apr 4 2009, 02:05 PM
FourBlades   > Put the car on a lift, open the doors and use...   Apr 4 2009, 02:12 PM
FourBlades   I did use a brace bolted to the upper seat belt mo...   Apr 4 2009, 02:09 PM
SirAndy   Any measurements I could do using simple tools to...   Apr 4 2009, 02:36 PM
Richard Casto   I did use a brace bolted to the upper seat belt m...   Apr 6 2009, 09:19 AM
JazonJJordan   I did use a brace bolted to the upper seat belt m...   Jul 29 2009, 11:03 AM
Bartlett 914   I feel your pain. I repaired my 75 when I got it i...   Apr 4 2009, 03:11 PM
FourBlades   Thanks man...did you have any trouble getting your...   Apr 4 2009, 03:26 PM
sww914   It will be very difficult or impossible to find an...   Apr 4 2009, 03:48 PM
FourBlades   According to wikipedia, steel expands .00000645 in...   Apr 4 2009, 04:03 PM
Wes V   I've got a question for the author of this str...   Apr 4 2009, 05:45 PM
FourBlades   Wes, This is a really good question. I went out ...   Apr 4 2009, 06:14 PM
drive-ability   I had that happen as well when I installed some st...   Apr 4 2009, 06:43 PM
r_towle   The A pillar, at least the part that the door hing...   Apr 4 2009, 07:29 PM
FourBlades   Rich, Thanks for the suggestion. Have you tried ...   Apr 4 2009, 07:40 PM
r_towle   Yes I have done it. Push on the outer rear b-pilla...   Apr 4 2009, 07:53 PM
FourBlades   OK, cool, I will try it tomorrow. Thanks....John   Apr 4 2009, 08:23 PM
Bartlett 914   :popcorn:   Apr 5 2009, 11:08 AM
charliew   I would think the passenger side will be easier to...   Apr 5 2009, 11:28 AM
FourBlades   Charlie, Thanks for the suggestions. I was hopi...   Apr 5 2009, 11:52 AM
horizontally-opposed   I am pretty sure I read on some forum that a guy ...   Apr 6 2009, 10:10 AM
Richard Casto   I am pretty sure I read on some forum that a guy...   Apr 7 2009, 06:54 AM
charliew   About thirty years ago I torch welded the floors i...   Apr 5 2009, 12:13 PM
Wes V   I'm trying to get my mind around this whole ...   Apr 6 2009, 09:08 AM
McMark   In my experience, this is the problem, John. I r...   Apr 6 2009, 09:56 AM
andys   When I welded my Engman kit, I measured my door ga...   Apr 6 2009, 10:39 AM
6freak   I was test fitting my doors before painting them ...   Apr 6 2009, 10:42 AM
FourBlades   Mark: I did a fair amount of seam welding on mine...   Apr 6 2009, 11:52 AM
horizontally-opposed   How did your guy know where to jack up your car? ...   Apr 6 2009, 12:33 PM
Wes V   I think something to think about would be to do on...   Apr 6 2009, 03:01 PM
Wes V   Fortunately, he knew what he was doing and was ab...   Apr 6 2009, 03:03 PM
horizontally-opposed   Fortunately, he knew what he was doing and was a...   Apr 6 2009, 03:39 PM
FourBlades   Mr. C: I was wondering about that too. If I neede...   Apr 6 2009, 11:56 AM
6freak   Mr. C: I was wondering about that too. If I need...   Apr 6 2009, 12:30 PM
FourBlades   Slim line hinges may work....hmm.. Great, windows...   Apr 6 2009, 02:56 PM
burton73   John, Your post was freaking me out all weekend. ...   Apr 6 2009, 03:20 PM
FourBlades   Bob: Your door gap looks pretty good. Sounds lik...   Apr 6 2009, 05:58 PM
r_towle   So, To use a hydraulic unit to spread the door, y...   Apr 6 2009, 06:33 PM
FourBlades   Rich, Which part of the rear door jamb do you res...   Apr 6 2009, 06:52 PM
r_towle   outer edge so you are pushing against the fender (...   Apr 6 2009, 07:14 PM
charliew   Adding the material will fix the small door but I...   Apr 6 2009, 07:18 PM
Wes V   It sure would be nice if somebody stepped up with ...   Apr 6 2009, 07:56 PM
FourBlades   Richard, I think I made the same mistake when I p...   Apr 7 2009, 07:44 AM
Richard Casto   John, I think part of the problem is that if I kn...   Apr 7 2009, 08:13 AM
charliew   Welding never spreads any structure. It will alway...   Apr 7 2009, 10:08 AM
Richard Casto   Welding never spreads any structure. It will alwa...   Apr 7 2009, 12:55 PM
charliew   The fact that the engman kit covers the top and in...   Apr 7 2009, 01:12 PM
Bartlett 914   Heating the driver side bottom might help close j...   Apr 7 2009, 01:30 PM
charliew   Heating the driver side bottom might help close ...   Apr 8 2009, 12:18 AM
McMark   John, I've used a PortaPower between the front...   Apr 7 2009, 05:48 PM
atomix8   I realize I'm thread hijacking, AND pulling ou...   Jul 27 2009, 07:54 PM
tracks914   Yours looks easy to fix. Your door is too low at ...   Jul 28 2009, 08:46 PM
atomix8   Yours looks easy to fix. Your door is too low at...   Jul 29 2009, 05:42 PM
r_towle   Yours looks easy to fix. Your door is too low a...   Jul 29 2009, 07:12 PM
rick 918-S   [quote name='atomix8' post='1196947' date='Jul 29...   Jul 29 2009, 08:16 PM


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