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solex |
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Senior Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 789 Joined: 12-January 05 From: Long Island, NY Member No.: 3,439 Region Association: North East States ![]() |
I recently performed a top end rebuild on my engine with:
At about 150 miles I started to hear a knock at idle, sounded like it was coming from #2. The sound seemed to be some what reduced when the plug wire was disconnected. At 200 miles I decided to do some more investigation; during oil change I noticed that there was a sludge / silvery substance on the oil strainer plate and decided to tear it down, thinking that there was a problem with a rod bearing. The first thing I noticed was some rubbing on the #4 exhaust push rod. I removed the heads and noticed that there was cylinder scoring on the tops and bottoms, remove the cylinders and saw the tops and bottom were worn... this must be the source of the silvery sludge. Attached are some pictures. No what do I do? Any advice would be greatly appreciated... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) Dan Attached image(s) ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
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Jake Raby |
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#2
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Engine Surgeon ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 9,398 Joined: 31-August 03 From: Lost Member No.: 1,095 Region Association: South East States ![]() |
Yep.. Most every time that people try to "get away with" not splitting the case, this happens... You could do partial builds before these engines were 30+ years old..
I haven't even attempted to do this in the last 15 years, back when I did I had a 50% success rate at best. The more you go out of your way to avoid a problem the more problems are created! I bet the issue is the rod bearing/ crank... How tight were the wrist pins in the piston/rod?? did you install them with your fingers only, or did they need persuasion? |
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