Low Idle Problem Help..? Options

[detoxcowboy]

I have a 74 2.0

Idle stays low (verge of stalling) and Idle screw has no effect.. Jump on the throttle a few times and the Idle stays High.. Turn it off and restart the Idle is low again.. What is the vaccum supposed to be in the system? I reset the timing and that helped a little. Idle is steady. Is my TPS mal Adjusted. Wher and how to I start to search for what is wrong?

After 2500 rpm the car runs and climbs but try to hold at 2500 rpm in the driveway and the rpm starts to drop slowly..

Things I recently changed..

New control NOS unit (matches the car year and the mps)
New Vacumm Hoses and Fuel Lines..
New Cylinder Heads (valves etc.)
3 New Engine Harnesses (Ignition, Alternator and FI)
New Cold Start Vlave
New temp 1 and temp 2 sensors..
Had Serviced the Injectors too

** I DiD change the New decel valve hose routing to Match what is discussed in THE ECU link which differs from pelican parts..

ANy help is goo help..

[SLITS]

How many clicks? I figure the car is 30+ years old and if it was still at the "factory setting" I would be amazed. I usually start at midpoint of the range and go up from there until the exhaust smells "gassy", then start backing down till it I am happy with the idle and starting characteristics.

Otherwise, obtain and LM1 and set the air/fuel ratio at 14.

If your deacceleration valve is working correctly, your idle will not immediately return to "normal" after chucking a few revs.

You can bump your fuel pressure by a couple of pounds. I don't know exactly at what pressure you can over-ride the return spring in the injector causing it to leak. Bumping the pressure up will also richen the mixture to a degee. I don't think I would run much higher than about 32 psig.

I also check the function of the AAR (Supplementary Air Valve) while playing with the above. From cold start, it takes some time for the valve to close. If it doesn't close, it's a pretty big "vacuum leak".