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TonyAKAVW |
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That's my ride. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 2,151 Joined: 17-January 03 From: Redondo Beach, CA Member No.: 166 Region Association: None ![]() |
I've been reading up on lots of threads about the rear conversion, CV joints, etc. etc. I'm not 100% clear on everything, but more importantly I'm not exactly sure what I have...
A few years ago I picked up a roller that was in the early stages of a -6 conversion. The owner worked at a Porsche shop here in socal, and had put a 1987 SC front end on the car, and started to do the 5-lug rear conversion. So what I have are a pair of trailing arms with some stuff installed. From what I can tell from the other threads, I have a 74+ hubcentric wheel flange, early 911 stub axles, and on one of the trailing arms, a partially complete 911 handbrake. The other trailing arm has the dust shield portion installed, but no shoes, etc. The stub axle flanges measure 100 mm across in total diameter (edge to edge). Now for the questions: 1. There were several threads about spacers required for the hubcentric wheel flanges, but I couldn't figure out where these spacers are supposed to go. Second, is there a way I can tell if this setup has them or not? 2. I'm hoping to use the 944 CV joints, 914 axle, and 911 coarse splined output flanges. Based on what I have are there any issues? 3. Brakes. I currently have the A calipers on the front and stock 914 rear calipers. When I finish this rear 5-lug conversion I will have to choose between upgrading the rears to the V-calipers or moving my A calipers to the rear, and using Boxster calipers on the front. As far as I can tell, there is little to convince me to go with the V-caliper. A set of Boxster calipers is ~$300 off ebay, and I figure I should be able to make a set of adapters on my milling machine. The V-calipers are nearly $600 and offer no change in pad size on the rear. I realize that fora narrow bodied car, the setup I'm proposing is overkill, but if in the future I decide to flare, I'd have the brakes already done. I have a 165 HP Subaru motor, and I'm sitting at about 1900 lb right now, with some weight still to come off. So the question here is any suggestions/opinions? 4. If I do put the A calipers on the back, are they strictly bolt-on or will I need to modify anything? -Tony Attached image(s) ![]() ![]() ![]() |
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jaxdream |
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Senior Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 974 Joined: 8-July 08 From: North Central Tennessee Member No.: 9,270 Region Association: South East States ![]() |
Hi Tony , one of your questions were about the calipers for the rear , your front A calipers won't fit , they have a 3.50 inch bolt spread and the 914 arm hasa 3.00 inch bolt spread.A lot of guys use the rear M type caliper ( up to 83) with the 20 mm thick rotor . The calipers require a 5mm spacer in between the caliper and the mounting ears on the 914 arm both bolts.This gives you the correct spacing for the caliper with pads over the 20 mm thick Vented rotor. This will give a Gr8 rear disc setup once you get the e-brake operational and there is no modification to the arms other than the 5mm spacer addition to bolt the calipers on. Some one on here is selling some M calipers ,IIRC correctly , check out the classifieds.
Look it over , post your thoughts. I am in the process of doing the same as you , 5 lug conversion with 944 cv conversion. Jaxdream |
Wes V |
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Member ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 482 Joined: 11-October 07 From: Los angeles Member No.: 8,211 ![]() |
One word of caution in regards to the hub being able to "flop around" if the spacer wasn't installed, in a configuration where it should be.
It will not flop around due to the friction (inward and outward) on the inner race of the wheel bearing. Keep in mind that the hub needs to be pressed into place (plus removing it can do damage to the bearing). Not having the spacer (where needed) will lead to problems due to the fact that the axle stub isn't adding compression to the bearing and the fact that under heavy side loading, the assembly could move outward. Now this is all nit-picking on the wording "flop around", but I wouldn't want you to use that to indicate if the spacer is there or not. Even with the stub axle removed, the hub wouldn't flop around, unless the bearings were trashed. You have no idea what the PO did. Take it apart to make sure. (as a side note; don't tow your car with the (stub) axles removed.) Wes |
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