Yet another 5-lug rear conversion, some questions |
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Yet another 5-lug rear conversion, some questions |
TonyAKAVW |
May 23 2009, 09:42 PM
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#1
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That's my ride. Group: Members Posts: 2,151 Joined: 17-January 03 From: Redondo Beach, CA Member No.: 166 Region Association: None |
I've been reading up on lots of threads about the rear conversion, CV joints, etc. etc. I'm not 100% clear on everything, but more importantly I'm not exactly sure what I have...
A few years ago I picked up a roller that was in the early stages of a -6 conversion. The owner worked at a Porsche shop here in socal, and had put a 1987 SC front end on the car, and started to do the 5-lug rear conversion. So what I have are a pair of trailing arms with some stuff installed. From what I can tell from the other threads, I have a 74+ hubcentric wheel flange, early 911 stub axles, and on one of the trailing arms, a partially complete 911 handbrake. The other trailing arm has the dust shield portion installed, but no shoes, etc. The stub axle flanges measure 100 mm across in total diameter (edge to edge). Now for the questions: 1. There were several threads about spacers required for the hubcentric wheel flanges, but I couldn't figure out where these spacers are supposed to go. Second, is there a way I can tell if this setup has them or not? 2. I'm hoping to use the 944 CV joints, 914 axle, and 911 coarse splined output flanges. Based on what I have are there any issues? 3. Brakes. I currently have the A calipers on the front and stock 914 rear calipers. When I finish this rear 5-lug conversion I will have to choose between upgrading the rears to the V-calipers or moving my A calipers to the rear, and using Boxster calipers on the front. As far as I can tell, there is little to convince me to go with the V-caliper. A set of Boxster calipers is ~$300 off ebay, and I figure I should be able to make a set of adapters on my milling machine. The V-calipers are nearly $600 and offer no change in pad size on the rear. I realize that fora narrow bodied car, the setup I'm proposing is overkill, but if in the future I decide to flare, I'd have the brakes already done. I have a 165 HP Subaru motor, and I'm sitting at about 1900 lb right now, with some weight still to come off. So the question here is any suggestions/opinions? 4. If I do put the A calipers on the back, are they strictly bolt-on or will I need to modify anything? -Tony Attached image(s) |
jaxdream |
May 24 2009, 08:35 PM
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#2
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 974 Joined: 8-July 08 From: North Central Tennessee Member No.: 9,270 Region Association: South East States |
Sorry about the mix up on the backing plate, I didn't catch the 914 e-brake holder tab in the 3rd pic of the first set, the pics didn't show the whole arm, Richard is on a very good track on the e-brake setup , there is a thread titled " A different way to hook up 911 e-brakes" it's a merged thread , should be able to search it out , check out the thread , you will get the I have three e-brake cabling spreader setups , 911 , 944 , 928 , I've worked all three around , I was going with the 928 spreader setup , but changed mind because it requires a stright pull from a cable similar to the 911, the 944 uses a pull by cable but at an angle from the backplate which I feel can be setup and executed a lot more easily than the other two because the cable would have to make a 90 deg bend going back to the hand brake lever , the 944 will just use a slightly angled setup , no need to 90 it and keep the cables out of the exhaust's way and not melt them .Richard is also right about the stop tab , it needs to be anchored to the casting , think about the drum brakes on American cars , the brake shoes butt up against the anchor pin that the springs attach to , this keeps the shoes from rotating around the hub in case of emergency handbrake pull ,Porscheses ( Porshi ??) are no different in this respect.You all the parts in the pics , except for calipers, caliper spacers ( don't forget them ) rotors, rotor holding screws, and pads. The studs should be decided upon depending on your wheel choice and the need or not to use wheel spacers . The stud thing should be done to the hubs before they are pressed into the bearings , unless you come up with a way to press them out and reinstall different length while the hub is mounted in the bearing.
Good luck , it can get crazy with the possibilities available ( $$$$$ ) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) Jaxdream |
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