Rebuilding My Weber 40s ? |
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Rebuilding My Weber 40s ? |
kenshapiro2002 |
Aug 12 2009, 07:15 AM
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#1
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,441 Joined: 23-July 09 From: Bawlmer, MD Member No.: 10,598 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
Can a "shade tree" mechanic like myself do this without a major cluster F*#k? I know how to label, sort and be meticulous, and how to do one at a time. On a scale of 1-10 (1 being an oil change and 10 being clutch replacement in an XKE!) whattaya think?
Ken P.S. Bought the car after it had sat for years. Rode it home from CT to MD and it ran fine for about 150 miles. Then it began to act fuel starved under any load...up hills, accelerating, etc. It gets worse day by day. I've changed fuel filter (pretty clean actually), plugs and wireset. Should I clean idle jets first...before attempting this? Any chnace I'll get the thing running again if I do this? |
r_towle |
Aug 12 2009, 08:07 AM
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#2
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Custom Member Group: Members Posts: 24,591 Joined: 9-January 03 From: Taxachusetts Member No.: 124 Region Association: North East States |
Yes you can do it.
I wont say it easy, but it really is. The nice thing is that the screws only fit in one place...same with the jets etc.... What I would suggest is that you only do ONE carb at a time...leave the other carb alone and on the bench so you can see where things go. Get a gallon of Berrymans Parts/Carb cleaner....it comes in a gallon can made for you to dunk the whole carb body into it. Read the directions on the can...aluminum needs to be timed....20 minutes per dunking...then wash it off with water to stop the cleaning action...(wear gloves) I disassemble everything.. Put all the jets and floats in a box. Dunk the body and get it perfectly clean....sometimes you need to dunk it two or three or four times to get all the lacquer out....get it clean. blow all the passeges out with air....then dunk again. When you can eat from the bowl...then its clean. Dont bother doing it half assed. Then dunk all the jets, nuts, bolts ....everything together. I do not dunk the floats..they are plastic. While you are waiting, fill a coffee can up halfway with fuel. Hold each float underwater (fuel) to check for air bubbles which means you have a leaky float that needs to be replaced. Prior to putting the top cover back on, set the proper float height. I have yet to open a 40mm IDF carbs that was setup correctly. All the floats seem to be different, and you want both carbs to have the same exact float height. Get the weber book. I like this one http://www.amazon.com/Weber-Zenith-Strombe...2887&sr=1-2 RIch |
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