Autobody question Options

[r_towle]

Hi,

This is regarding my Eurovan.
It has quite a few rust spots ranging in size from a nickel up to a silver dollar size.
These are full blown rust...paint is all puckered.

So, there are so many that I will be repainting the van at this point.
What I am looking for is a time proven process to bring these spots back up to a level that I can paint the van.
I do not want to, nor will I, strip the whol van.

I want to know how you, a painter, would remove the paint/rust.
treat it or not (I have a sand blaster, so I can spot blast them)
bondo to fill the pitting.
primer (type)
sealer (whole van, or just the spots?)

Then I plan on using a single stage paint....no need for a concours beauty, just one solid color.

I figure I will have the pleasure of sanding the whole body down with what? 200-300 wet?
The clear coat is really scratched up...so it cant be to thick anymore.

Rich

[charliew]

I have a 63 jeep gladiator truck that has a ongoing problem with the seams where the fender bulges are spot welded on in their seams. I've tried three times over twenty years to stop the rust from appearing in the seams but it still comes back in small areas. Seams are hard to seal unless one side is welded shut completely and then the remaining side can be treated and sealed. It may also have something to do with body flex also though.

[rick 918-S]

I have a 63 jeep gladiator truck that has a ongoing problem with the seams where the fender bulges are spot welded on in their seams. I've tried three times over twenty years to stop the rust from appearing in the seams but it still comes back in small areas. Seams are hard to seal unless one side is welded shut completely and then the remaining side can be treated and sealed. It may also have something to do with body flex also though.

Next time you repaint try POR 15 on a foam brush. Clean what you can get on both sides of the seam, use the foam brush to apply the POR 15. press it into the seam in a dabbing method. It's thin enough to run into the seams and out anyplace that has an opening on the other side.

I did this to Sandy's 59 Bugeye after blasting. I specially used this method for the tight space between the inner wheelhouse and the outer quarter panel. I had POR leaking out of all the spot weld flanges. Places where you would never get paint to flow.

After the POR sets and you clean up the excess, use your metal conditioner, I perfer Veri-prime, then use a urothane seam sealer. This isn't fool proof but the urothane seam sealer will flex a little with the body flex.

Others may have a better method.