Hey paint and body guys, have a look at this, and tell me what you think..... |
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Hey paint and body guys, have a look at this, and tell me what you think..... |
URY914 |
Sep 15 2009, 08:10 PM
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#1
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I built the lightest 914 in the history of mankind. Group: Members Posts: 121,106 Joined: 3-February 03 From: Jacksonville, FL Member No.: 222 Region Association: None |
This started as a paint bubble and grew to about 2" in diameter than it cracked and opened up.
Attached image(s) |
r_towle |
Sep 18 2009, 12:45 PM
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#2
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Custom Member Group: Members Posts: 24,591 Joined: 9-January 03 From: Taxachusetts Member No.: 124 Region Association: North East States |
I trust Rick's advice and ScottyB....two guys that make/made a living doing paint and body work.
I dont use rust treatment..tried all of them, none of them work with the current formulations of paint etc. Never use POR 15 under topcoat paint surfaces...its made for frames...not hoods. Just go back old school. Sand blast it, and start from there. I use a sandblaster to ensure that all the pits are rust free....a wire brush does not do it, it just cleans the high spots. Rent/buy/borrow a sand blaster...( I have a speedblaster...its awesome) Clean all the rust, then put either a decent etching primer down, or an epoxy primer. Etching works easier and its alot cheaper...its sold by the rattle can at most decent paint stores. Buy the skim coat bondo...its sprayable...so its really thin. You dont need to spray it....but you can put it on really thin..use it like an off color coat to find the high spots by sanding till you expose all the high spots and low spots...keep repeating and ensure you have etching primer on any newly exposed bare metal. Then spray a sealer on it..again, sold in rattle can form. then paint it...otherwise the paint can look kinda splotchy in the sunlight if you have bondo in one place and not in another... Its just a primer/sealer...goes over all the bodywork...then gets sanded to 400-600 grit wet.... Should last longer than the rest of the paint on the car...lol One more thing...go find a decent auto paint store. Talk to them about the product lines they use with your long term plans in mind. This painting stuff is very complex chemistry and you really need to stick with one vendor from primer to clear coat... Pro guys can probably swap certain favorite products, but guys like us, who are not trained in multiple brands are much wiser to stick with one brand (and one product line within that brand) Base coat/clear coat is more forgiving and easier to fix than single stage systems. Rich |
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