Chip - 20 years old, Can't stand it any longer Options

[Pat Garvey]

I have ONR chip in my paint - ONE! It's been there since I dropped a screwriver in the 80's. Rest of the paint is perfect.

I'm looking for something that doesn't require a brush, since I am known to be sloppy.

Concerned about compatability, since my paint was put on in 1979, and is a poly-razzmataze paint of the era. Clear coated too. Paint was a Glssurit compound. Could look it up, but just wondering. There are "pens" out there, but I don't want them bleeding/bubbling what I have.

Suggestions?
Pat

[IronHillRestorations]

The Langka product is to smooth the blob you get from touching up a chip. You fill the chip with the touch up paint, let it dry and then use the Langka to smooth the touch up even with the original paint. Even if the color match isn't 100% perfect, it's much less detecable when you don't have the tell tale signs of touch up.

[Tom_T]

The Langka product is to smooth the blob you get from touching up a chip. You fill the chip with the touch up paint, let it dry and then use the Langka to smooth the touch up even with the original paint. Even if the color match isn't 100% perfect, it's much less detecable when you don't have the tell tale signs of touch up.

According to their website - their products include the touch-up paints & other supplies, & the touch-up kit includes what they call "the blob eliminator". Langka says they can smooth the bump/blob in 30-60 seconds, which may or may not be true time.

btw - the same thing can & should be done with the procedures on the paintscratch.com, langka.com, Pelican & other how-to webpages; by using very fine grit sandpapers (1500, 2000, 2500 grits, then rubbing compound & polish.
http://www.paintscratch.com/automotive-paint-tips.htm

Smoothness after the repair is one part of the challenge, while getting a near perfect or better color match & finish match (e.g.: clear coat, color top coat, etc.) are equally important - otherwise you end up with a smooth spot of off-color or off-finish paint & not a "happy camper"! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)

Pat or whomever is well served to take the time to get an as near to perfect color match, match the finish (Pat's has clear coat), pre-test for color & finish in an inconspicuous spot, & do several tries if necessary.

btw - many of the paint manufacturers use the color gun system to match to sample now, so Pat could check with his favorite high quality body shop as to which manufacturers produce the highest quality & longest lasting paints. The last I heard Dupont, Dunn-Edwards, PPG & a couple of others were considered Topz, but that could be different now.
http://www.paintscratch.com/painttypes.htm
http://www.paintscratch.com/apple.html

Paintscratch.com uses Dupont & PPG Acrylic Lacquer according to my cans/bottles for my 3 other cars.

http://www.paintscratch.com/

I've used it & it works well & they got the colors correct, but all were 85 or 88 cars with OE colors in their systems.....but I get nothing for a recco. Also, I went to a local auto body supply for the 1500 & 2000 grit & other supplies since it was less there than on their website, for the same stuff.

Hope this helps Pat & others with the same problem!

btw - IMHO, it's a good idea to get an extra small bottle & a quart or pint of the repaint paint color from your body shop or paint supplier whenever you repaint your car, then keep it in a cool dry place SEALED until needed for use (also the same clear coat if applicable).

In Pat's case, after 20 years they would probably be fossilized or separated beyond redemption by now, but then he might have fixed the spot soon after he did it if he had some extra pait for touch-up available.