'Cooling flaps' in top of engine tin, Cable activated? How do these function? Options

[johnnie5]

Just as the title states....
When I was dressing my new motor I noticed these 'reverse' flaps. But have no idea what cable would hook up to the flapper arm, or where it would come from? Or what would activate it?
Someone please enlighten me...

[ME733]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif) ..well ..NOT having any air flaps. Diverters at all.....will not effect air going over the oil cooler....the air is pressurized..and as such WILL equalize in the sheetmetal back to front and go over the cylinders and oil cooler and out. I have never had ANY repeat ANY oil cooling problems , by removing ALL the crap that is in the way, of restricting air flow to the cylinders..(.THE DAMN FLAPS.) The engine , cools ,revs better as the compacted air has less restriction, and or cavation.(compacting air to the point that air flow virtually ceases) . When your cast aluminum fan blows up (as some one in a recient post had )...it is due from the force , restriction, cavation, to such a degree that the AIR PRESSURE will break aluminum fins off the air impeller/blower. This is why the racers who turn ..LOTS of rpm,s remove fan blades. To prevent cavation. to keep air flow going at extreme rpm,s. Porsche race cars solved the problem by having air blowers/ fans, with FEWER blades... all that force , of air inside the air housings, against the fan blades ALSO COSTS HORSEPOWER, Now with all this said I do not build engines for people that sit in traffic, for hours, and turn only 3500 rpms. with 10-w-30-oil., ,.I.M.E. no flaps - no problem. However; If there are those owners of 914s who want their cars to be totally stock as relates to air diverters, flappers and are concerned that modofications MAY affect the cooling of their engine then please disreguard ALL the information in this post. By all means do it your way.It,s your money, and time. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif)

[Dave_Darling]

... I have never had ANY repeat ANY oil cooling problems , by removing ALL the crap that is in the way, of restricting air flow to the cylinders..(.THE DAMN FLAPS.)
...
Now with all this said I do not build engines for people that sit in traffic, for hours, and turn only 3500 rpms. with 10-w-30-oil., ,.I.M.E. no flaps - no problem.

Your post illustrates two things quite well.

First, that a race car is not a street car, and that most race car mods make for really crappy street cars.

Second, that the "no flaps needed" myth is really pervasive, and that we still need to be on guard against those who try to spread it. And it truly is a myth--street 914s do in fact need them. I've seen at least one motor cooked from leaving them out, and two more that were caught before permanent damage was done. (Yoder couldn't understand why his oil temps were so high. Once he installed them, the temps came down.)

--DD

[ME733]

... I have never had ANY repeat ANY oil cooling problems , by removing ALL the crap that is in the way, of restricting air flow to the cylinders..(.THE DAMN FLAPS.)
...
Now with all this said I do not build engines for people that sit in traffic, for hours, and turn only 3500 rpms. with 10-w-30-oil., ,.I.M.E. no flaps - no problem.

Your post illustrates two things quite well.

First, that a race car is not a street car, and that most race car mods make for really crappy street cars.

Second, that the "no flaps needed" myth is really pervasive, and that we still need to be on guard against those who try to spread it. And it truly is a myth--street 914s do in fact need them. I've seen at least one motor cooked from leaving them out, and two more that were caught before permanent damage was done. (Yoder couldn't understand why his oil temps were so high. Once he installed them, the temps came down.)

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif) Well Dave, for you to say the ..No flaps needed " MYTH is pervasive and you need to be on guard"etc. is just ignorant arrognance.. I have built plenty of street cars without the "damn flaps". and every one of them ran cool.( every one of them was non stock). it,s not a myth its a FACT. What you and other people have experienced is other problems with the engine that you failed to recognize.(and probably won,t admit ).examples: ignition timing too low or high., fuel grade too low, lean fuel delivery(jets or injectors), clogged oil cooler, and missing SIDE TIN/sheetmetal( which IS imperative to retain,)... improper valve lash,manafold air leaks, and many other things. A FAILED flapper cable connection, bellows , or jambing of these items or the 'flappers', will fry the engine also.The "flappers and air ductwork were designed to accomodate the entire spectrum of weather conditions ,. Including very cold weather. So the 914 would operate normally in ALL weather conditions. with about 72-to 100 horsepower. With any modification which increases H.P.over stock ... ,2.o injectors on a 1.7 or carb conversions, cams , headwork, etc that increases H.P. and btu,s of heat you should rethink what cools the engine, and how it can be done more effectively . HAVE you heard about the alternative fan housings and impellers which have been around for at least 15 years?. maybe the 911 engine?, no bellows no cable ,no flappers no problem. Just air pressure passing thru the oil cooler fins. So If YOU want to use the "damn flappers" and associated crap please continue to do so.
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