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JRust |
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914 Guru ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 6,317 Joined: 10-January 03 From: Albany Oregon Member No.: 129 Region Association: Pacific Northwest ![]() ![]() |
I am getting my rebuilt 2.0 motor back for my 74 LE resto. What is the best way to break in the motor from the time I put oil in the first time. Also what oil do you recommend for the initial break in. I plan to use Brad Penn 20w50 after. I know they make a break in oil at like 30 weight. Just curious what you guys recommend (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)
Also would it be better to start out with Carbs. I don't know the condition of my FI. I will be replacing all the lines & cleaning my Fuel injectors. Just seems like I could troubleshoot the carbs initially a little easier. Again what do you guys prefer? |
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ConeDodger |
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Apex killer! ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 24,094 Joined: 31-December 04 From: Tahoe Area Member No.: 3,380 Region Association: Northern California ![]() ![]() |
I don't trust 30+ year old EFI for break-in because there are too many variables to trust, and little reason to trust them. I don't trust new aftermarket EFI for break-in because you have to dial it in while your engine is vulnerable.
There are really two stages to break-in. First, the cam which is done in the first 20 minutes of run time, next the ring seating which is done in the first 1K miles or less if you use Jake's technique. I agree with McMark. That first 20 minutes for sure and probably the ring seat should be done with carbs. As for break-in oil, Charles Navaro and Jake Raby have done work which is now considered seminal and is quoted all over the internet and even magazine articles which proves Brad Penn has the highest zinc content. If you accept that our motors need high zinc content for survival it seems a no-brainer to use Brad Penn for break-in and beyond. Break-in oil for break-in and 20w 50 beyond. |
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