Bunch of Newbie owner questions, what's safe to put floor jack on? Options

[Doug73/2.0]

Ok...so the projects begins. A bunch of Newbie questions.
1) Whats is a safe spot to jack the rear and to jack the front? The previous owner put the floor Jack right under the motor? is this safe. Once up, what is the best spot to put the jack stands. I've never owned a car without a frame..The floor under the drivers seat is toast, otherwise everything looks solid or already replaced Thanks

2) Car has been parked ten years, so I'm going to lift the tank out tonight. Question, is there a drain? The filler pipe neck is a giant rust blob..otherwise the tank looks fine...should this scare me (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif) ? Once out what should I do with the tank? Friends say just put some new gas swiss it around and re drain? I was woundering, do garges "flush" a tank like they do a radiator?

3) as long as I've got the tank out, should I replace the fuel lines? they look ok but I'm surprised to see plastic lines back by the engine?. Do you need flexible lines or can I just bend the new tubing to the desired shape. I.e are they using the plastic stuff to allow movement? With the tunnel covered, do you just slide the new lines thru and leave the old ones in place?

I pulled the plugs, squirted some oil in and manually pushed the car so at least I know the motor turns over, I just don't want the crap in the tank to get sucked into the injectors. If I leave the fuel lines in place for now, can I use compressed air to blow the old fuel out of the?
Thanks for the advice (IMG:style_emoticons/default/cool.gif) Doug

[davep]

The jack donuts at the corners of the pan are often toast. I used to jack on the engine bar of the 73 and later cars. The 72 and earlier cars have rubber centers at the ends of the engine bar that can tear. I like the A-arms at the front. The way I look at it is, if the car is reasonably solid, and the suspension supports the car the way it was designed, then sort of jacking near the wheels may be reasonably safe. Jacking on sprung components is not really recommended. It often depends on what parts you want to work on, and what parts of the body are solid. Sometimes I have used large boards to spread the weight.

The tank does not have a drain. It does have two, confusingly similar lines coming out. A rusting tank should be professionally refurbed by a shop that does tanks or rads. Make sure they know what they are doing. Replace the plastic lines if they are cracked or crazed. Sometimes they can be cut back to good material. They are not easy to replace in the body. If the original lines are still available, use them. If not, you have tough choices. You can't leave the old ones in there.

There is probably a tech article somewhere on doing the job. Like Pelican Parts website.

DaveP