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69_Lex |
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#1
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Member ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 52 Joined: 28-June 08 From: wyoming Member No.: 9,226 Region Association: None ![]() |
Has anyone had any good or bad experiences using Fusor Metal Adhesives? I'm considering using it to bond my outer longs on and the long clamshells on. Then using structural rivets to prevent the unzippering effect of the bonded surfaces.
Pros I've read 1. Metal adhesives shear strength is greater than spot welds or the sheet metal being bonded. 2. Provides corrossion protection on surfaces being bonded (bonded surface) 3. No warping of metals, unlike welding. Cons I've read 1. Bonded surfaces can unzip, which is why a spot weld or rivets ar needed along bonded seam. 2. Don't let it get into areas that you don't want bonded or filled. Any thoughts are appreciated. |
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69_Lex |
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#2
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Member ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 52 Joined: 28-June 08 From: wyoming Member No.: 9,226 Region Association: None ![]() |
My only concern is that the metal around the rivet may tear or develop stress cracks. I've got a lincoln 185 tig welder and could seam weld the edge.
As for the factory spot welds on the 914 longs I'd recommend that everyone take a look at them. I dismantled a 1975 914 not too long ago and was able to easily pop the factory spot welds apart with screwdriver without much effort. If I can find the scrap piece of the long I'll post a pic of the spot welds. The welds weren't rusty either, a few of the welds were tacked good and the metal tore before the weld failed. I'd say about 80% of the spot welds I easily popped apart on that particular car. Thats just a bit of info I thought I'd put out there, not sure if anyone else has come across that or not. |
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