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69_Lex |
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#1
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Member ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 52 Joined: 28-June 08 From: wyoming Member No.: 9,226 Region Association: None ![]() |
Has anyone had any good or bad experiences using Fusor Metal Adhesives? I'm considering using it to bond my outer longs on and the long clamshells on. Then using structural rivets to prevent the unzippering effect of the bonded surfaces.
Pros I've read 1. Metal adhesives shear strength is greater than spot welds or the sheet metal being bonded. 2. Provides corrossion protection on surfaces being bonded (bonded surface) 3. No warping of metals, unlike welding. Cons I've read 1. Bonded surfaces can unzip, which is why a spot weld or rivets ar needed along bonded seam. 2. Don't let it get into areas that you don't want bonded or filled. Any thoughts are appreciated. |
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Bartlett 914 |
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#2
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Advanced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 2,216 Joined: 30-August 05 From: South Elgin IL Member No.: 4,707 Region Association: Upper MidWest ![]() |
This looks very interesting. You can even weld and glue at the same time! You can glue in the long and then spot weld. Now there is a glue / sealant over the full contact surface. I do not know about rosette welds. But this looks like it would be better than weld through primer. You will also not need seam sealer.
Fusor Metal Bonding |
JazonJJordan |
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#3
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Member ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 340 Joined: 6-June 09 From: Atlanta-Augusta, Georgia area Member No.: 10,446 Region Association: South East States ![]() |
Yes, I was referring to the Weld Bond Procedure adding to a reinforcement like Engman's Inner Longs Kit that is welded with Rosette welds and you are instructed -not- to seam weld it. Inside- metal to metal it is primed only or bare.
Even with the best recommended seam sealer- I am very uncomfortable leaving these two surfaces facing each outer like battery plates nearly bare and waiting to exchange and oxidize into an internal rust pocket. Limited perhaps or not, I like the sound of bonding them effectively but only if retaining the physical welding. Not the chemical welding. I would reserve this first for corrosion resistance but conceiveably; even when those longs were rosette welded and the frame torqued its force down the frame, it would only pull from these round welds. Now with full contact, this would be greatly reduced (even if it never was an issue before). It would be worth its weight as even smaller-slimmer pieces could provide greater stiffness still. Time will certainly tell. -Jordan This looks very interesting. You can even weld and glue at the same time! You can glue in the long and then spot weld. Now there is a glue / sealant over the full contact surface. I do not know about rosette welds. But this looks like it would be better than weld through primer. You will also not need seam sealer. Fusor Metal Bonding |
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