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ThinAir |
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#1
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Best friends ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 2,543 Joined: 4-February 03 From: Flagstaff, AZ Member No.: 231 Region Association: Southwest Region ![]() ![]() |
I've always believed that it is POSSIBLE to build a Type IV that does not leak, with either synthetic or natural oils. The question I've had is "how?"
This gets to "where do Type IVs leak from"? Now there are obvious places like oil pressure senders that can be problems from time to time when something malfunctions, but that's not the issue. It's more an issue of the kind of oil "seep" that results in the bottom of the engine being moist with oil, but you can't tell where it's coming from. It makes me wonder what kind of sealant (if any) should be used in places like Case halves Push rod tubes Cylinder-to-case Cylinder-to-head etc. Since I'm in the middle of a rebuild, I'd really like to do this right. When I got my training on overhauling Type 1s the sealant of choice was "GaskaCinch", but it's not 1980 anymore and there have been lots of advancements. What is available now, and where should it be used, to achieve a Type IV that does not seep oil? |
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Jake Raby |
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#2
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Engine Surgeon ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 9,394 Joined: 31-August 03 From: Lost Member No.: 1,095 Region Association: South East States ![]() |
If I get a single drop in the dyno tray after 8 hours I'm pissed!
Its not the sealants, its the prep work and surfaces combined with 13-14 different sealannts for each engine.. Most of all its experience- took ME 10 years to get a bone dry TIV... You won't do it after just 1-2 engines, if you do go buy a lottery ticket immediately- |
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