D-Jet troubleshooting |
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D-Jet troubleshooting |
saigon71 |
Nov 13 2009, 03:36 PM
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#1
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 2,000 Joined: 1-June 09 From: Dillsburg, PA Member No.: 10,428 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
Could use some ideas…
Background: Car sat idle in a garage for six years - 37K miles. Engine was free. 2.0 factory d-jet. I adjusted the valves, installed a new fuel filter, changed the oil & put some gas in it. It fired up but had a very high idle. Since then, I have done the following: -New plugs & wires -New distributor cap, points & condenser (rotor was clean) -New air filter -New alternator & voltage regulator - tested good -All new vacuum lines from AA -New intake runner gaskets and manifold to head gaskets -Tested all FI components except the brain. Replaced AAR and MPS with good used ones, bench tested each before installation. MPS holds 20 in HG and electrical tests were within limits. Replacement parts are compatible based on this site: http://members.rennlist.com/pbanders/djetp...tm#troubleshoot -Tested fuel pressure - dead on factory spec of 2.0 bar -Dwell well within specs -Set timing dead on at 27 degrees BTDC with distributor lines plugged and disty at full advance - TPS set according to the picture I found on this site - New plenum to intake runner gasket - New cold start valve gasket - Tested PCV Valve - Plenum inspected – no holes found - Throttle body removed & thoroughly cleaned At all ambient temps tested (50-70 degrees F), the car fires right up but stalls almost immediately…this happens twice. Tapping the throttle does not help. On the third start, the car stays running and idle varies between about 800-1200 RPM. After about 10 minutes, it settles in at about 950RPM or so. Besides this, the engine runs great, has plenty of power and pulls hard in all five gears. Is this as good as it gets or am I missing something. Thanks in advance. Bob |
r_towle |
Nov 24 2009, 07:21 PM
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#2
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Custom Member Group: Members Posts: 24,591 Joined: 9-January 03 From: Taxachusetts Member No.: 124 Region Association: North East States |
Its a vacuum canister.
Remove the one or two vacuum lines that go to it and plug them. Then if you had a vacuum leak there, it wont be there after you plug the lines. I cant believe that would cause the three start problem. It may have an affect if the advance plates are stuck in the full advance position when its cold...then it wont really start right..but it will eventually start... If you look at the arm that sticks out of the canister it has a little c-clip that attaches to the advance plates. Remove the c-clip and remove the canister so its not in the way...then see if you can EASILY move the top advance plate...should be really easy and simple to move. Is this every single cold start time? If so, put the fuel pressure gauge back inline and leave it overnight. Turn key on ONCE...read gauge. Does it show 30#? It just sounds like you are not running a full fuel system. Rich |
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