D-Jet troubleshooting Options

[saigon71]

Could use some ideas…

Background: Car sat idle in a garage for six years - 37K miles. Engine was free. 2.0 factory d-jet. I adjusted the valves, installed a new fuel filter, changed the oil & put some gas in it. It fired up but had a very high idle.

Since then, I have done the following:
-New plugs & wires
-New distributor cap, points & condenser (rotor was clean)
-New air filter
-New alternator & voltage regulator - tested good
-All new vacuum lines from AA
-New intake runner gaskets and manifold to head gaskets
-Tested all FI components except the brain. Replaced AAR and MPS with good used
ones, bench tested each before installation. MPS holds 20 in HG and electrical tests
were within limits. Replacement parts are compatible based on this site:
http://members.rennlist.com/pbanders/djetp...tm#troubleshoot
-Tested fuel pressure - dead on factory spec of 2.0 bar
-Dwell well within specs
-Set timing dead on at 27 degrees BTDC with distributor lines plugged and disty at
full advance
- TPS set according to the picture I found on this site
- New plenum to intake runner gasket
- New cold start valve gasket
- Tested PCV Valve
- Plenum inspected – no holes found
- Throttle body removed & thoroughly cleaned

At all ambient temps tested (50-70 degrees F), the car fires right up but stalls almost immediately…this happens twice. Tapping the throttle does not help. On the third start, the car stays running and idle varies between about 800-1200 RPM. After about 10 minutes, it settles in at about 950RPM or so. Besides this, the engine runs great, has plenty of power and pulls hard in all five gears. Is this as good as it gets or am I missing something. Thanks in advance.

Bob

[detoxcowboy]

Check Your timming? Oscillation w/ high idle can mean you have a leak where you do not expect it, I do not know what is in Auto Atlanta's vacummn line kit but...

Idle oscillates and/or idle is too high and cannot be adjusted down to 1000 rpm with the air bleed screw Vacuum leak
Timing over-advanced
Check the following areas for a vacuum leak:
1. Intake runner-to-head gasket/spacer
2. Injector seals
3. Intake runner boots
4. Air plenum (e.g. cracks or rust holes)
5. Throttle body gasket
6. Throttle body shaft (worn body or shaft)
7. Distributor vacuum adv/ret cell
8. Auxiliary air regulator (stuck open or leaky)
9. Deceleration valve
10. Manifold pressure sensor
11. Vacuum hose cracks
12. Cold-start valve gasket to plenum

[saigon71]

Check Your timming? Oscillation w/ high idle can mean you have a leak where you do not expect it, I do not know what is in Auto Atlanta's vacummn line kit but...

Idle oscillates and/or idle is too high and cannot be adjusted down to 1000 rpm with the air bleed screw Vacuum leak
Timing over-advanced
Check the following areas for a vacuum leak:
1. Intake runner-to-head gasket/spacer
2. Injector seals
3. Intake runner boots
4. Air plenum (e.g. cracks or rust holes)
5. Throttle body gasket
6. Throttle body shaft (worn body or shaft)
7. Distributor vacuum adv/ret cell
8. Auxiliary air regulator (stuck open or leaky)
9. Deceleration valve
10. Manifold pressure sensor
11. Vacuum hose cracks
12. Cold-start valve gasket to plenum

Timing is spot on at 27 degrees BTDC. AA's vacuum line kit included every piece of vacuum line needed to replace all lines.
1. New
2. New
3. New
4. Inspected, no cracks or rust holes found.
5. New
6. Inspected, no excessive play
7. HOW DO I TEST THIS?
8. Replaced with bench tested used unit
9. Tested, will re-test
10. Replaced with bench tested used unit
11. All new vacuum lines & elbows installed
12. New gasket installed

It looks like the only thing I missed on this list is: Distributor vacuum adv/ret cell - how do I test this.

Thanks

[detoxcowboy]

Check Your timming? Oscillation w/ high idle can mean you have a leak where you do not expect it, I do not know what is in Auto Atlanta's vacummn line kit but...

Idle oscillates and/or idle is too high and cannot be adjusted down to 1000 rpm with the air bleed screw Vacuum leak
Timing over-advanced
Check the following areas for a vacuum leak:
1. Intake runner-to-head gasket/spacer
2. Injector seals
3. Intake runner boots
4. Air plenum (e.g. cracks or rust holes)
5. Throttle body gasket
6. Throttle body shaft (worn body or shaft)
7. Distributor vacuum adv/ret cell
8. Auxiliary air regulator (stuck open or leaky)
9. Deceleration valve
10. Manifold pressure sensor
11. Vacuum hose cracks
12. Cold-start valve gasket to plenum

Timing is spot on at 27 degrees BTDC. AA's vacuum line kit included every piece of vacuum line needed to replace all lines.
1. New
2. New
3. New
4. Inspected, no cracks or rust holes found.
5. New
6. Inspected, no excessive play
7. HOW DO I TEST THIS?
8. Replaced with bench tested used unit
9. Tested, will re-test
10. Replaced with bench tested used unit
11. All new vacuum lines & elbows installed
12. New gasket installed

It looks like the only thing I missed on this list is: Distributor vacuum adv/ret cell - how do I test this.

Thanks

#7 suck it or blow it!! basically checking #1 it holds vaccum but #2 more importantly you can blow through it or suck through it..

since your idle i assume is up 1200 when first cold started then down to 950 after 10 minutes.. is in a way normal function of the AAR but is a litlle slow... the oscillation is not normal.. mine used to oscilate at idle when warm and I seriosly can't exactly tell you it was one thing but hows your wiring harnes? clean tight connnections (3 pole ground tab nice and clean tight everywhere ect.) cracks and to many repairs cause issues.. the ecu contol knob bascially at the age off these car should be set at rich, I tried to avoid setting too rich and that did not work as well and evry time I had it to a mechanic they turned it up rich too so. Every single component on my djet in NOS down to the harness and MPS ECu relay board all everything and still sets at rich.. it is like your car is trying to get some air.. when you set the idle on the bleed screw make sure your car is fully warmed up 10 minutues or so since tha is where you issue is..

Read until you dumb founed several time the Rennlist The Ecu documents fully noy just the trouble shoot, in there somewhere he expalins his 20 year idle chase in a personal matter that shows you what nuances there are after long freeway, after grocery shopping, in the morning, or when it cold and wet//; ect.. boring stuff but after 2 weeks of buring into it "bada Bing' it just ha[ppens to come clear and easy but never specific/..