75 1.8 garage find won't start Options

[jhelgesen]

(IMG:http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x311/jhelgesen/75%20914/DSCN5132.jpg)

I'm trying to resurrect a 75 1.8 thats been sitting for 15 years. (she was hiding in a basement next to the furnace for all that time). Pretty darn rust free as far as 914's go. She got parked for FI issues.

(IMG:http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x311/jhelgesen/75%20914/DSCN5141.jpg)

I'm trying to get her running again. I've got the tank clean. The fuel pump was cleaned and runs. The fuel injectors have been cleaned and checked, click well. Dual relay clicks when attempting to start. She turns over, but I'm not getting power to the fuel injectors. What to I try next?

Thanks,

[jim912928]

another key to the L-jet fuel injection is the Mass Air Flow sensor...this is the that large module that the air box bolts onto. If you take the top cover of the air box off you'll see a big flap that regulates the amount of air entering into the system. It opens up simply by the air being drawn into the system by the engine cranking/running. Key point is it is what triggers things like the fuel pump starting to run etc. If it sticks, power isn't sent to those (I'm guessing you are not hearing the fuel pump running also?). A few easy tests to do (on top of using the noid tool mentioned above):

1. spray a little bit of quick start into the air box...if the car runs for a little bit then you know you are getting spark and not fuel
2. crank the engine and manually push that air flap open on the MAF sensor...if it is sticking and the air doesn't have enough force to open it up on it's own...no power to fuel pump etc. If it starts you know what it is!

BTW.....nice find! That car looks like it is in really great shape!

[ClayPerrine]

another key to the L-jet fuel injection is the Mass Air Flow sensor...this is the that large module that the air box bolts onto. If you take the top cover of the air box off you'll see a big flap that regulates the amount of air entering into the system. It opens up simply by the air being drawn into the system by the engine cranking/running. Key point is it is what triggers things like the fuel pump starting to run etc. If it sticks, power isn't sent to those (I'm guessing you are not hearing the fuel pump running also?). A few easy tests to do (on top of using the noid tool mentioned above):

1. spray a little bit of quick start into the air box...if the car runs for a little bit then you know you are getting spark and not fuel
2. crank the engine and manually push that air flap open on the MAF sensor...if it is sticking and the air doesn't have enough force to open it up on it's own...no power to fuel pump etc. If it starts you know what it is!

BTW.....nice find! That car looks like it is in really great shape!

Actually, the fuel pump is activated during cranking by the double relay, not the air flow meter. During cranking there is not enough air flow to open the flap, so the pump won't run.

Pull the yellow wire off the starter, and turn the key to the start position. You should hear the fuel pump run. If you don't, you probably have a bad double relay. Second, check the wiring to the dropping resistors. They have a tendency to break at the bottom, and then you will lose that cylinder. If enough of them break, then the car won't start. A noid light will verify this real quick. Just pull the plugs off to each injector, and have someone crank the car while you watch the light. It should flicker during cranking.