The start of my 2.0 build, and also the start of my questions Options

[MrKona]

I talked about building up a 2.0 last winter, and now I'm finally going to do it. This is my first engine build, hence it'll be conservative and relatively stock. My only plan with the car is to have a nice, reliable, well constructed engine. I thought about a 2056, but I finally decided to stay with 94mm cylinders. I really don't want to have to tweak with FI or fiddle with cam selection right now. I've read that Jake's 9550 cam is excellent, but also that it produced dirty emissions. I'd like to keep this engine as clean as a type 4 can be. I'm also a little confused if Jake is even selling cams at the moment, so I've just decided to go with a stock grind.

My current engine is a PO rebuilt 1.8 with hydraulic lifters (with one that won't prime, sounds horrible, I can't wait to be done with them).

Highlights:

GA case
Stock displacement (with new Euro spec pistons)
Stock grind Webcam and with solid lifters (both new)
For now, I'm going to cannibalize the rebuilt 1.8 heads from my current engine, unless I find a deal on decent rebuild 2.0 heads during the build. I would love to buy a pair of Raby heads, just can't swallow the extra two grand at the moment.
L-jet fuel injection from my 1.8. (I have some issues to work out here, running really rich. No vacuum leaks that I can find. I have to check the fuel pressure - I'm thinking either AFM or pressure regulator as next areas to check). From what I've read on many threads here and other sites, the L-jet can handle up to a 2056 displacement.

I'll keep this thread updated this winter as I work through this rebuild. I don't know how long a project this will be or how quickly I may get it done.

Current progress: Jake Raby rebuild DVD - Check. Tom Wilson's book - Check. I've split the case and and planning on bringing the case, crank, and rods for reconditioning to Dan Hall's Machine Shop here in Portland. After reading various forums, this appears to be the Type IV specialist in this area. Brand new Euro-spec P/C set - Check! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

So now for my first question: Regarding the existing cylinder studs, Tom Wilson writes, "Unless you're installing case savers, don't remove the cylinder studs from the case. Doing so has no purpose, but does wear the potentially troublesome case threads, takes time, and stresses the studs" (p. 76).

In the assembly section, he states "If the cylinder studs were removed for some reason, install them now. Apply Permatex 3H to their threads to stop oil leaks" (p. 120).

I don't know the history of this case. I don't know if there was leakage at the head studs. Should I remove the studs, and reinstall with Permatex (after the case comes back from the machine shop, obviously) as a precaution to prevent potential leakage? Or should I just leave them be as is? Does it really put that much stress on the case to remove them, or is Wilson referring primarily to the Type I-III magnesium cases? I am leaning to toward remove and reinstall, as I strongly intend for this engine to be leak-free.

Lastly, as I work through this process, I welcome and encourage comments. Please, if you see something I'm doing wrong, or have advice for me, give it to me! I can probably use it! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif)

[FourBlades]

Wow, your engine looks great.

Your photos are so clear and focused. So much better than most books that
are supposed to teach you about engines. I almost think Hanes found the
grungiest possible car and then took the worst possible pictures.

How are you lighting the photos? Are you using any flash?

Can you show how to set the valve clearance?

John

[MrKona]

Wow, your engine looks great.

Your photos are so clear and focused. So much better than most books that
are supposed to teach you about engines. I almost think Hanes found the
grungiest possible car and then took the worst possible pictures.

How are you lighting the photos? Are you using any flash?

Can you show how to set the valve clearance?

John

Hi John, sorry for the long delayed response. I took the close up pictures with an old Nikon Digital, which I unfortunately no longer own. Light was usually from the camera flash, but some of the close-ups, I just used a shop light and turned the flash off. The flash just drowned out everything in glare. I rested the camera steady on the engine and held the camera as still as possible.

As far as setting the valves, I used the standard method with a feeler gauge.

By the way, I've really enjoyed your restoration thread!

- Bryan