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| ghuff |
Feb 10 2010, 08:13 PM
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#1
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This is certainly not what I expected down here. ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 849 Joined: 21-May 09 From: Bodymore Murderland Member No.: 10,389 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
My eyecrometer tells me the floors of my 914 are 20 gauge. Same for the longs. But it has a 50% accuracy rate. For instance it failed welding the u shaped cuts in the drivers side pan, but I got through that. I would rather start with a better baseline and tweak the welder settings from there.
Unfortunately I was unable to order a sheetmetal gauge from eastwood before the 5 feet of snow. Once i have the cross support and center tunnel out I could compare them to the chart on my welder unless you guys know? My setup is .24 wire, 25% CO2 75% Argon. I practiced on some scrap 16 gauge from the engman kit and managed to lay a good clean bead with proper penetration and no dripping or nastiness out of the back. Need the gauge of: Longs Floorpans Center tunnel/Support Rear firewall where the hood release cable is. Also, I have been searching and looking around for a good thread on seam welding here, but have found some bits here and there. I already know I am removing my motor and cutting into the back panel to seam the shock tower to the long, and will be seaming the trunk and shock tower sheet metal together in the actual trunk. I had the thought of grinding an angle onto the longs to increase the surface area and seaming them together slowly, which I read in another thread as well here. But that is all I have seen. A few pictures by JP of the yellow car and that was in a thread by Andrewy I think which was abandoned, and not too heavy on content. Can you guys share your experiences? I went through digging into hell and a lot of other restoration type threads, but my car is still very solid so I mostly need to be seam welding, and fabricating smaller patches then covering in por-15. The car is going to be beaten on, tracked and have an LS1 in it with very sticky tires. I am currently removing the center tunnel and cross brace to clean rust out inside of there, seal it all back up and install the engman kit, then move on to the rest of the chassis. |
rick 918-S No point in Beveling sheet metal to increase the w... Feb 10 2010, 09:06 PM
ghuff
No point in Beveling sheet metal to increase the ... Feb 10 2010, 09:22 PM
Vacca Rabite Start at 1. From the right arrow to the end. The... Feb 10 2010, 09:35 PM
ghuff Oh ok. That makes sense. That gives the metal a ch... Feb 10 2010, 10:07 PM
rick 918-S
Oh ok. That makes sense. That gives the metal a c... Feb 10 2010, 10:26 PM
sean_v8_914 seam welding a tub is a bit tricky. when you stiff... Feb 11 2010, 08:05 AM
sean_v8_914 careful!!! you can really tweek the fu... Feb 11 2010, 08:28 AM
rick 918-S Sean knows what he is talking about. Some areas of... Feb 11 2010, 11:01 AM
charliew My biggest problem is the contamination of the met... Feb 11 2010, 11:37 AM
ClayPerrine If this is a street car, please don't weld the... Feb 11 2010, 07:38 PM
sean_v8_914 oh thats good stuff. ya. however...
materials scie... Feb 12 2010, 03:07 AM
J P Stein I seam welded the shitbox...front to back..mostly ... Feb 12 2010, 08:50 AM
ghuff Should I brace the chassis somehow when I install ... Feb 17 2010, 06:09 PM
J P Stein The only time I had shrinkage problems is when I o... Feb 17 2010, 06:46 PM
ghuff
The only time I had shrinkage problems is when I ... Feb 17 2010, 06:59 PM
J P Stein Here's a couple that will keep ya busy.
The fi... Feb 17 2010, 08:22 PM
J P Stein Easier stuff in the engine room, front & rear ... Feb 19 2010, 09:50 AM![]() ![]() |
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