Brake pressure regulator Options

[watsonrx13]

Eric's ad selling the 912 rear calipers started a discussion about the brake pressure regulator. I'd like to continue that discussion. Eric mentions that he wouldn't replace the regulator with a 'T' fitting. What I would like to know is how could you test the regulator off of the car? At $300 - $400 a piece from the dealer I would like to test mine before I purchase a new one.

Also, Eric mentioned that the front calipers shouldn't be used on the rear, even with the regulator. Is there any problem installing a set of rebuilt rears on and not installing the parking brake cables?

Any thoughts and suggestions are welcomed. BTW, I'd like to keep this discussion only for the 4-lug wheels.

Also, what are the thoughts about replacing the master cylinder with the larger one how does that effect the brake biasing?

-- Rob

[Tom_T]

Eric - others?

I'm basically looking for a bit better braking on my 73 2L for primarily street use & want to keep it for all intents & purposes an "as original" example that I can CW if I want, or maybe AX a little just for the halibut. So are there any issues &/or concerns in brake system set-up - relative to tires sizes - when staying with a more or less stock street brake setup on my early 8/72 build 73 914-2.0? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

... i.e.: when using the OE Fuchs 2L Alloys with OE size repro/new OEM 165(/80)HR15 Radials as completely as OE - vs. the "newer" & wider tires more readily available today in the similar speedo error "close" range, such as the 195/65HR15 or 185/70HR15 (or VR's) ???? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

If it makes any diff. to the answer for the above:

- Brake System-wise - My early 73 2L has late front (2 bleeder) & early rear (1 bleeder) calipers which I'll have Eric do his thang with, add Porterfield R4S pads F&R, using stock OEM rubber hoses all around, upgrading to the 19mm 914-6/911 MC, & I will put on new Zimmerman OE solid rotors & FAG/OEM bearings F&R while I'm at it - mostly so the whole system seats & functions as new. The old rotors were still good - but sat on the 914 in my garage for almost 25 years, & will stockpile them just in case they're NLA 10 years from now, or sell them. BTW - OE pressure regulator stays in!

- Suspension-wise - the 73 2L's all came with the factory sway bars F&R rear (mine incl.), the rear springs & front torsion bars are still OE stock, but I'd changed out Sachs OE for Koni reds at all 4 corners back in the early 80's & they only have about 20k mi' on them before stored in 5/85, & seem strong (will do street/sport Bilsteins if/when they need replaced). I'd run the front only lowered about the 1/2" adjustment you get with the stock suspension set-up (adj. at the Torsion Bars IIRC ??), & will do so now, but will add in all new street bushings F&R and the OEM Lemforder (sp?) Turbo Tie-rod kit (& bump steer kit iff necessary).

BTW - folks, with what you save on putting in a 19mm MC vs. 17mm MC - it basically covers the price diff on OEM & more basic stock type pads - if cost is a concern while you're doing this, or just save more with better braking & firmer pedal with 19mm & stock types pads - both at less. IMHO - it's the way to go even on a street or DD, come time to rebuild the brake system.
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