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914/4: 70 71 72 73 74 75 76 914/6: 70 71 72
| tod914 |
Mar 9 2010, 10:01 AM
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Advanced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 3,755 Joined: 19-January 03 From: Lincoln Park, NJ Member No.: 170 |
Couple questions, what's the finish on the engine bar? Painted or bare metal? Next would be the color of the blower hoses from the exchangers to the ducts; orange or black? What is the closest high temp paint you found to match the factory color of the exhaust system; muffler & exchangers? The branch pieces; I seen grey and black. What year did they change; mid 73?
Just as a side note, I found a Powder company that will make an exact match of the factory tin color. $100 to develope, $15-$25 per pound with an intial minimum of 5 lbs. If there is enough intested to cover the development cost of the color match, I'd be happy to send in the tin for matching. Say 4 or 5 people to keep the cost down. |
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| Pat Garvey |
Mar 9 2010, 07:13 PM
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#2
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Do I or don't I...........? ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 5,900 Joined: 24-March 06 From: SE PA, near Philly Member No.: 5,765 Region Association: North East States |
Couple of answers here.......
The bars were not painted. Why, I can't figure. I have veered from that & painted mine. BTW, anyone need a nicely finished side shifter bar? Engine tin. Redid mine in '88 (that's right). Had all the parts bead blasted & solvent prepped & primed them the same day with Rust-Oleum primer (that's right). Let them cure for 2 weeks & painted them with Rust-Oleum satin black. Yeah, I know, it isn't Factory, though no one could tell me what Factory was. All I know is, 22 years later the tin still looks great. Worked for me, but the key is solvent prepping before priming. I still say no to powder coating. The finished look is too rough. Forget about painting SSE's. They were never engineered to be painted & virtually nothing will stick when heat is applied. Enjoy the shiney finish. Branch pieces - I wasn't aware that they ever changed the color, though I've been proven wrong before. The J-tubes and connections should be satin black. Crossover pieces should be gray, like the muffler. Ford gray works well, but won't take the heat. So, here again, I go to RustOleum high temp light gray. Once again, not Factory....whatever that was. For the intake runners, do a search on this site. Someone nailed it about 2 years go. Think it was a VW paint, but search. Pat |
tod914 Undercarriage details. Mar 9 2010, 10:01 AM
Jon Fernandes Hey Tod, depending on the price I would be interes... Mar 9 2010, 10:56 AM
tod914 No matter how I prep the surface, the Wurth Zinc w... Mar 9 2010, 11:56 AM
Jon Fernandes How are you prepping it? Mar 9 2010, 01:04 PM
Tom_T
Couple questions, what's the finish on the e... Mar 9 2010, 04:54 PM
tod914 Well, had the piece sandblasted. Then sanded it d... Mar 9 2010, 06:37 PM
Tom_T
Well, had the piece sandblasted. Then sanded it ... Mar 9 2010, 07:13 PM
tod914 Tom & Pat, I'm about to order a can of the... Mar 9 2010, 08:56 PM
Tom_T Tod - you may also want to see if this VHT in this... Mar 10 2010, 01:47 PM
tod914 Thanks Tom, Looks like that's SP106 on their l... Mar 10 2010, 06:21 PM![]() ![]() |
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