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Dr Evil |
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#1
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Send me your transmission! ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 23,038 Joined: 21-November 03 From: Loveland, OH 45140 Member No.: 1,372 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region ![]() ![]() |
I am trying to finish my notes to accompany the rebuild video (notes will be free) and I am wanting to pick your collective brains for info on corrosion prevention for the mag alloy case. What do you do? The factory coating only lasted a few years and is long gone now. On most peoples cases, it is the oil that keeps it from corroding (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)
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Katmanken |
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#2
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You haven't seen me if anybody asks... ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 4,738 Joined: 14-June 03 From: USA Member No.: 819 Region Association: Upper MidWest ![]() |
From my mag casting days, the magnesium institute book recommends zinch chromate paint. The zinc acts as a sacrificial anode to prevent corrosion, and the binder in the paint seals and protects. Comes in green and bright yellow.
My tranny has a thin coat of aircraft grade zinc chromate paint on it, and a thin coat of wheel silver. My second choice would be the tan tectyl like wax coating suggested by the factory. Some of those coatings have corrosion protectants formulated within. For those of you that passionately believe that paint prevents appropriate cooling, you might research the heat transfer rate through the factory recommended tectyl like coating, or the heat transfer rate through the usual coat of grease, oil, and crud. Bottom line, uncoated it rusts, and appropriately coated, it won't. |
Tom_T |
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#3
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TMI.... ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 8,321 Joined: 19-March 09 From: Orange, CA Member No.: 10,181 Region Association: Southern California ![]() ![]() |
From my mag casting days, the magnesium institute book recommends zinch chromate paint. The zinc acts as a sacrificial anode to prevent corrosion, and the binder in the paint seals and protects. Comes in green and bright yellow. My tranny has a thin coat of aircraft grade zinc chromate paint on it, and a thin coat of wheel silver. My second choice would be the tan tectyl like wax coating suggested by the factory. Some of those coatings have corrosion protectants formualted within. For those of you that passionately believe that paint prevents appropriate cooling, you might research the heat transfer rate through the factory recommended tectyl like coating, or the heat transfer rate through the usual coat of grease, oil, and crud. Bottom line, uncoated it rusts, and appropriately coated, it won't. Ken - from your mag casting days - what's the best way to remove the zinc chromate safely (green if it matters)?? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) I got a set of 5 used Fuchs 2L Alloys which a DAPO had primed with Z-C then painted Phoenix Red for the LE look I suppose (or had it done). They are in very good condition under the paint/Z-C - that having protected it all these years, but I wanted to remove the paint & Z-C before I take them to Al Reed for a full-on resto & re-anodizing. I've tried Acetone & a rag, but it's painfully slow & may score the surface (as did the seller with a soft toothbrush & rag - BTW he was not the DAPO). Any suggestions for materials & methods to safely, more efficiently & effectively remove Z-C? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) Not to hijack your thread Dr. E - but removal would be the same for paint &/or Z-C on the transaxle cases too - so it's really applicable here too! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) |
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Lo-Fi Version | Time is now: 9th May 2025 - 09:10 AM |
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