The start of my 2.0 build, and also the start of my questions |
|
Porsche, and the Porsche crest are registered trademarks of Dr. Ing. h.c. F. Porsche AG.
This site is not affiliated with Porsche in any way. Its only purpose is to provide an online forum for car enthusiasts. All other trademarks are property of their respective owners. |
|
The start of my 2.0 build, and also the start of my questions |
MrKona |
Dec 14 2007, 09:19 PM
Post
#1
|
Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 597 Joined: 25-July 05 From: Santa Rosa, CA Member No.: 4,469 Region Association: None |
I talked about building up a 2.0 last winter, and now I'm finally going to do it. This is my first engine build, hence it'll be conservative and relatively stock. My only plan with the car is to have a nice, reliable, well constructed engine. I thought about a 2056, but I finally decided to stay with 94mm cylinders. I really don't want to have to tweak with FI or fiddle with cam selection right now. I've read that Jake's 9550 cam is excellent, but also that it produced dirty emissions. I'd like to keep this engine as clean as a type 4 can be. I'm also a little confused if Jake is even selling cams at the moment, so I've just decided to go with a stock grind.
My current engine is a PO rebuilt 1.8 with hydraulic lifters (with one that won't prime, sounds horrible, I can't wait to be done with them). Highlights: GA case Stock displacement (with new Euro spec pistons) Stock grind Webcam and with solid lifters (both new) For now, I'm going to cannibalize the rebuilt 1.8 heads from my current engine, unless I find a deal on decent rebuild 2.0 heads during the build. I would love to buy a pair of Raby heads, just can't swallow the extra two grand at the moment. L-jet fuel injection from my 1.8. (I have some issues to work out here, running really rich. No vacuum leaks that I can find. I have to check the fuel pressure - I'm thinking either AFM or pressure regulator as next areas to check). From what I've read on many threads here and other sites, the L-jet can handle up to a 2056 displacement. I'll keep this thread updated this winter as I work through this rebuild. I don't know how long a project this will be or how quickly I may get it done. Current progress: Jake Raby rebuild DVD - Check. Tom Wilson's book - Check. I've split the case and and planning on bringing the case, crank, and rods for reconditioning to Dan Hall's Machine Shop here in Portland. After reading various forums, this appears to be the Type IV specialist in this area. Brand new Euro-spec P/C set - Check! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) So now for my first question: Regarding the existing cylinder studs, Tom Wilson writes, "Unless you're installing case savers, don't remove the cylinder studs from the case. Doing so has no purpose, but does wear the potentially troublesome case threads, takes time, and stresses the studs" (p. 76). In the assembly section, he states "If the cylinder studs were removed for some reason, install them now. Apply Permatex 3H to their threads to stop oil leaks" (p. 120). I don't know the history of this case. I don't know if there was leakage at the head studs. Should I remove the studs, and reinstall with Permatex (after the case comes back from the machine shop, obviously) as a precaution to prevent potential leakage? Or should I just leave them be as is? Does it really put that much stress on the case to remove them, or is Wilson referring primarily to the Type I-III magnesium cases? I am leaning to toward remove and reinstall, as I strongly intend for this engine to be leak-free. Lastly, as I work through this process, I welcome and encourage comments. Please, if you see something I'm doing wrong, or have advice for me, give it to me! I can probably use it! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif) Attached image(s) |
MrKona |
Mar 22 2010, 02:44 PM
Post
#2
|
Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 597 Joined: 25-July 05 From: Santa Rosa, CA Member No.: 4,469 Region Association: None |
I'm back after having worked on "project intake runner conversion."
When we last left off, I had realized that my 2.0 3-hole intake runners would not fit my L-jet plenum. Since the D-jet plenum appears to require the 2.0 D-jet air filter and related pieces, I decided to drill my 4-hole L-jet intake runners to 3 holes. Easy enough, except after further inspection, I realized that it was not this simple, as there is a size mismatch between the base of the two runners where they meet up with the cylinder head. Demonstrated here by comparing the gaskets: (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/rosalindapetrisko.smugmug.com-4469-1269290673.1.jpg) I could simply drill the holes, but cosmetically, this wasn't okay. This is where J-B Weld comes in. Using the 3-hole gaskets as templates, I created a mold to mimic the look of a 3-hole intake. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/rosalindapetrisko.smugmug.com-4469-1269290673.2.jpg) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/rosalindapetrisko.smugmug.com-4469-1269290673.3.jpg) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/rosalindapetrisko.smugmug.com-4469-1269290673.4.jpg) First, I filled in the existing holes: (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/rosalindapetrisko.smugmug.com-4469-1269290673.5.jpg) And then the rest: (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/rosalindapetrisko.smugmug.com-4469-1269290673.6.jpg) Removed from the mold: (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/rosalindapetrisko.smugmug.com-4469-1269290673.7.jpg) And sanded smooth: (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/rosalindapetrisko.smugmug.com-4469-1269290673.8.jpg) I then drilled the new holes: (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/rosalindapetrisko.smugmug.com-4469-1269290674.9.jpg) What is not shown here is that I eventually used a template as a "drill bit guide." I drilled the 3-hole stud pattern onto a 1/4" steel plate. It was necessary to use the 1/4" steel plate to guide the drill bit. Even with a drill press and the runner clamped onto the table, the drill press bit wanted to drift to the softer material, in this case, J-B Weld, where the hole being drilled was half on J-B Weld and half on steel. It was the most difficult part of this project. After paint, the final result: (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/rosalindapetrisko.smugmug.com-4469-1269290674.10.jpg) and installed: (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/rosalindapetrisko.smugmug.com-4469-1269290674.11.jpg) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/rosalindapetrisko.smugmug.com-4469-1269290674.12.jpg) A couple more notes: 1. J-B Weld is rated up to a constant 500 degrees F, so hopefully, it will be okay for this application. 2. I thin the J-B Weld with a little acetone to make it pour easier into the mold. 3. Other Things: This project took awhile because I got side tracked doing a complete restoration on the drill press I was using.. Circle 1950s Atlas, made in Kalamazoo, MI. Great tool, It'll far outlast me. "Before" (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/rosalindapetrisko.smugmug.com-4469-1269290674.13.jpg) "After" (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/rosalindapetrisko.smugmug.com-4469-1269291435.1.jpg) Even recreated the decal. CW for drill presses: (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/rosalindapetrisko.smugmug.com-4469-1269290674.15.jpg) |
Lo-Fi Version | Time is now: 1st June 2024 - 06:41 PM |
All rights reserved 914World.com © since 2002 |
914World.com is the fastest growing online 914 community! We have it all, classifieds, events, forums, vendors, parts, autocross, racing, technical articles, events calendar, newsletter, restoration, gallery, archives, history and more for your Porsche 914 ... |