What The Heck Do I Do Now?, I hate electrical |
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What The Heck Do I Do Now?, I hate electrical |
fly |
Apr 14 2010, 11:57 AM
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#1
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Newbie Group: Members Posts: 38 Joined: 8-September 03 From: Walnut Creek, CA Member No.: 1,119 |
Here is a good one for all of you electrical masters. The starter on my car went out when the bendix stayed engaged. SO. I put in the new starter, new battery. This is a 75 1.8 with the 2.0 starter (the one with out the shaft).
New starter installed the car turned over well. Cranked 5 or 6 times while the fuel pump fed the injectors. Immediately turned the key to start the 2nd time and nothing happened. Basically what i have is a car that will start 5% of the time on its own. 95% you just hear the feul pump working. Tested all the wires with a friend who seems to understand more than I do. The yellow wire on the starter shows 12.7 volts when the key is engaged. Under a load it drops to 9.7 volts. Is this enough to close the circuit on the starter? Does the Yellow wire go direct from the key switch to the starter? I thought about replacing the entire harness. We bypassed the ignition and the same results. How is it possible for the car to randomly start perfect, then nothing for the next 20 tries? Has anyone had this experience? I am out of ideas and tests to perform. Or does anyone want to buy a clean 75 Any help will be greatly appreciated Mike 925-705-2030 |
charliew |
Apr 14 2010, 12:45 PM
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#2
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 2,363 Joined: 31-July 07 From: Crawford, TX. Member No.: 7,958 |
The problem with loose-corroded connections is with a meter they may seem good enough but they won't carry enough amps-current to make the device work. The easier-hard way if you have a helper is to wiggle each connection while the helper is operating the ign sw and when it turns and energizes the starter you have found the one thats the worst. There may be more than one though. All of the connections need to be visually looked at and inspected for corrosion and signs of overheating or looseness. You may need to jumper the relays involved to check them also. Another alternative is to use a long jumper wire from the battery to each connection to operate the starter and see where the open connection is. It probably won't be just one connection, it can be the total of them all thats creating a large resistance. I don't think 10 volts will operate the starter, I could be wrong, if it does it won't for long.
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