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PanelBilly |
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#1
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914 Guru ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 5,904 Joined: 23-July 06 From: Kent, Wa Member No.: 6,488 Region Association: Pacific Northwest ![]() ![]() |
Just wondered what's the best way for the car to sit when its not in use
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shoguneagle |
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#2
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shoguneagle ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 1,180 Joined: 3-January 03 From: CA, OR, AZ (CAZOR); New Mexico Member No.: 84 Region Association: Northern California ![]() |
I usually store a car during the winter months (mid Oct to mid April) since the cars are usually in Flagstaff, AZ instead of Northern California (one car remains in Nor-Cal where it is licensed and insured). Here is what i do for short storage say one to three/four months: Full gas tank with Stable additive, wheel dollies in case I have to move them, fresh oil prior to storage, increase the air ten pounds over normal driving requirements, battery tender if not avvailable then disconnect battery, start the cars at least twice and drive them around (this depends on weather in the Arizona High Country - 7100 ft). These cars never see snow or adverse weather.
If it looks like the cars will be stored more than five months, the tires are removed after doing the above items; cars on jack stands. All the cars are stored inside and covered. Any project cars I am working on are moved to the trailer garage where the openings are covered, enclosure sealed at lower points, air vented to the completely enclosure, etc after doing the foregoing items. In the Spring time and when it is warm (either Nor-Cal or Flagstaff) the top and sides come off and that is where i work on the project). Usually on projects I remove the tires to take the weight off the suspension, I try to put the jack stands under the suspension rather than the frame/unibody. These are my thoughts and have used them on highly collectible cars/projects as well as late model cars i have/still own. Why do I do this? Fresh oil change keeps acid buildup minimized; Stable prevents fuel deterioration; full fuel tank keeps rust from forming below the tank top; jack stands under suspension points keeps tension applied to shocks, springs, torsion bars, sway bars; Use Chevron fuels and additives; Antifreeze strength verified since it freezes in Flagstaff; Try to drive each car and re-service sometime during the short period storage, if longer term than three to four months and going to be more than a year, I coat cylinders and valves with light oil and keep the spark plugs removed. Anything longer that say two years, other long term storage methods are used including placing the car into vacuum storage. Whole different set of problems. Then again I have been accused of sometimes going overboard when it comes to storage of vehicles. These are my thoughts. Steve Hurt |
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