 Please help/ need advice, Rough running cold |
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| ILM914 |
 May 9 2010, 01:34 PM
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Member  Group: Members Posts: 96 Joined: 3-March 09 From: NC Member No.: 10,126 Region Association: None  |
Hi verybody: Any help here is greatly apprecialted. My 74 2.0 studders, hesitates and runs rough 1 min after starting up for about 10 min. It runs ok when warmed up fully, but I think it would run even better warm and cold if this problem was solved. I've checked for the obvious vacume leeks - found none, and I checked the temp head sensor neat # 3 cylinder. When I connected the harness wire to negative batt terminal the car would barely run. I guess the sensor is OK?. Thank you for any help on this, everyone on this site has been really helpful - great site!. Thanks, Joe
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| Tom_T |
May 9 2010, 02:06 PM
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TMI.... Group: Members Posts: 8,318 Joined: 19-March 09 From: Orange, CA Member No.: 10,181 Region Association: Southern California 
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Check your cold start valve - that's what it usually turned out to be on my 73 2L when giving the cold running symptoms you note.
Here's a link to the part if you need it, but shop around as the price can vary: http://www.automotion.com/product.asp?pf_i...mp;dept_id=4678 |
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| ConeDodger |
May 9 2010, 10:53 PM
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#3
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Apex killer! Group: Members Posts: 23,605 Joined: 31-December 04 From: Tahoe Area Member No.: 3,380 Region Association: Northern California
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QUOTE(Tom_T @ May 9 2010, 12:06 PM)  Check your cold start valve - that's what it usually turned out to be on my 73 2L when giving the cold running symptoms you note. Here's a link to the part if you need it, but shop around as the price can vary: http://www.automotion.com/product.asp?pf_i...mp;dept_id=4678 Tom, I thought of that and ruled it out in my head... The cold start injector is supposed to give a little squirt of gas and then shut down right at start up. If it were leaking, it would leak all the time and cause a rich condition all the time. It is under the same pressure as all of the injectors. The AAR is either supposed to be open or closed (I forget which) on start up and then close as the engine warms. If it were stuck in the warm position, it would cause the car to run rough for the first few minutes and then clean up as it warms. That is why I am thinking AAR. Although, I have to admit that playing around with misbehaving DJet is a bit like playing that Whack-A-Mole game at the arcade. You throw one new part at it and a new lame part shows up. One after another until you have replaced everything you possibly can. That is why there are so few DJet cars still around. Keeping it DJet is definitely worthwhile just not a simple task. |
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Posts in this topic
ILM914 Please help/ need advice May 9 2010, 01:34 PM
r_towle Do an Ohm meter test on your CHT.
Do it when cold,... May 9 2010, 01:40 PM ConeDodger I can tell you how to fix this but it involves buy... May 9 2010, 01:50 PM
ILM914 Thank you do you know how I can test and/or repair... May 10 2010, 09:42 AM detoxcowboy
Check your cold start valve - that's what it ... May 9 2010, 11:23 PM ericread Does "cold" mean 15 degrees F outside, o... May 10 2010, 09:54 AM detoxcowboy
Does "cold" mean 15 degrees F outside, ... May 10 2010, 10:17 AM ericread
Does "cold" mean 15 degrees F outside,... May 10 2010, 10:38 AM detoxcowboy I am still leaning on your cht or valve adjustment... May 10 2010, 09:54 AM realred914 air valve when cold (room temp is considered cold)... May 10 2010, 10:02 AM |
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