Please help/ need advice, Rough running cold Options

[ILM914]

Hi verybody: Any help here is greatly apprecialted. My 74 2.0 studders, hesitates and runs rough 1 min after starting up for about 10 min. It runs ok when warmed up fully, but I think it would run even better warm and cold if this problem was solved. I've checked for the obvious vacume leeks - found none, and I checked the temp head sensor neat # 3 cylinder. When I connected the harness wire to negative batt terminal the car would barely run. I guess the sensor is OK?. Thank you for any help on this, everyone on this site has been really helpful - great site!. Thanks, Joe

[realred914]

air valve when cold (room temp is considered cold) is open, you can blow air thru it with your mouth. when fully wamred up, the vlave closes, you cant then blow air thru it. it should have a working electric heater in it, power via the body for ground,a dn the single wire for positive. hook up the wire to positve 12 volt,a nd with body grounded, the valve should heat up and close.

if it stays open, you will have a very high idle speed when engine is warmed up. if it stays closed, your idle may be too low when cold (ie it will die unless you keep the gas peddle pressed) but once the engine is warmed up, you wont need it and all will be fine, when you warmed up.

the cold start valve only comes into play when it is very cold (like near freezing) the vale is actually a fifth injector, and it is powered by a positve wire and a ground wire, the ground wire goes to the cold start switch which is bolted to teh case, the switch will conduct tot eh injecotr when warmed up by the case transfering heat and by a bimetallic switch internally.

frankly where i live where it rarely ever freezes, my cold start valve is not used.