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kenshapiro2002 |
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#1
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Senior Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 1,444 Joined: 23-July 09 From: Bawlmer, MD Member No.: 10,598 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region ![]() |
The bellows on my left side tie rod end ball joint is shot (obviously). I'm assuming the downside is loss of grease...ingestion of dirt, and premature wear? Anyway, what's the fix? Do I need to replace the whole joint or can the bellows be replaced. Hand tools? Ease of repair on a scale of 1-10 with 1 being changing a tire and 10 being rebuilding the trans.?
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r_towle |
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#2
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Custom Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 24,705 Joined: 9-January 03 From: Taxachusetts Member No.: 124 Region Association: North East States ![]() ![]() |
Its actually a fairly easy project.
Jack it up and turn the wheel so that end is sticking out of the wheel well as far as you can get it. remove the nut. Get a 5 lb hammer or a large ball peen hammer. If you look at the spindle where the tie rod end goes in, on one side is the arm that attaches to the rest of the spindle... Hit the arm directly opposite of the arm. Its designed for this (all joints are) and it you hit it firmly and square, a few wacks and the joint comes loose. Now, once its out, measure the exact distance from the end of the tube it threads into out to the end of the tie rod, or a place you can measure accurately. Write that down. Loosen the lock nut (hold the middle tube at the notch with a cresent wrench, use another wrench on the nut. then turn out the threaded tie rod end. I cant remember, but each side is threaded either left or right handed. Before you strip the nut, try it the other direction. Put the nut on the new tie rod end and thread it in to the same dimension that you measured above. Put it back in the spindle and tighen everything up. Make sure to tighten the lock nut tight. If you think you messed up on the measurement, bring it to sears and have them give you an alignment. Rich |
kenshapiro2002 |
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#3
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Senior Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 1,444 Joined: 23-July 09 From: Bawlmer, MD Member No.: 10,598 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region ![]() |
Thanks. Not really sure where you're telling me to hit. Can't I just wack the threaded top of the ball joint since I won't be reusing it, or use a wedge kinda joint separator thingamabob? Car pulls to the right anyway, so alignment is coming anyway. Any tire place can do a 40 year old Porsche? Do I need to take specs to them?
Its actually a fairly easy project. Jack it up and turn the wheel so that end is sticking out of the wheel well as far as you can get it. remove the nut. Get a 5 lb hammer or a large ball peen hammer. If you look at the spindle where the tie rod end goes in, on one side is the arm that attaches to the rest of the spindle... Hit the arm directly opposite of the arm. Its designed for this (all joints are) and it you hit it firmly and square, a few wacks and the joint comes loose. Now, once its out, measure the exact distance from the end of the tube it threads into out to the end of the tie rod, or a place you can measure accurately. Write that down. Loosen the lock nut (hold the middle tube at the notch with a cresent wrench, use another wrench on the nut. then turn out the threaded tie rod end. I cant remember, but each side is threaded either left or right handed. Before you strip the nut, try it the other direction. Put the nut on the new tie rod end and thread it in to the same dimension that you measured above. Put it back in the spindle and tighen everything up. Make sure to tighten the lock nut tight. If you think you messed up on the measurement, bring it to sears and have them give you an alignment. Rich |
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