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VaccaRabite |
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En Garde! ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Admin Posts: 13,752 Joined: 15-December 03 From: Dallastown, PA Member No.: 1,435 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region ![]() ![]() |
My 2056 is getting elevated oil temps on the freeway. I am using a high volume pump, and seeing about 40 pounds of pressure on the freeway when my oil is up to temp.
What I think is happening is that there is too much pressure, and the oil is not being pumped through the oil cooler due to the check valve closing the passage. However, this is just a guess, as I don't have any way to test it. All I know is that when I am driving at revs, oil temp goes up and if I keep driving at higher revs the oil temps stay up). if I drop revs, oil temps fall back into place, but I can't do that on the freeway without building a lot of head heat. Before I go through the trouble and expense of adding an oil cooler, I want to make sure that I have checked out the simple fixes first. What do I do to make sure oil if going through the oil cooler? What is the point where pressure cuts off passage through the cooler? All tin is in place, and fan housing flaps divert air over the oil cooler 100% of the time (no thermostat in place, so the flaps are always set to cool). Zach |
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r_towle |
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Custom Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 24,705 Joined: 9-January 03 From: Taxachusetts Member No.: 124 Region Association: North East States ![]() ![]() |
I recall that either aircooled.net, cbperformance, or one of the german type 4 tuners had a spring/plunger kit for the type 4.
I also (its foggy) remember that when you go to a high output pump, you need to swap over the spring to match. I think if you call CB, they should be able to advise...or aircooled.net. I agree, you should not have to put in a cooler. I took it out once the car stopped being a track car...the track is what was killing it. Autox is simple one minute runs...no need for an oil cooler. Street is also simple enough...no need for a cooler. To much advance....even 2-4 degrees, will raise up the temps quite a bit. If you have a real good digital timing light that you can set the advance....tune it to 30 degrees first...then drop back. I found it a really hard start at anything below 28 degrees. It gets really hot at anything from 30-34 degrees. So that is the level of detail in timing that I have experienced...and its amazing what a couple of degrees will do to an aircooled. Given your carbs....I would still check the timing at full advance Get the car up to 3500 and pin the linkage there with a ziptie or a piece of string.. Then check you timing. If you dont have the fancy timing light (I dont) you can mark the fan (printable gauge on PP) I used a pic or sratch awl to mark the ten degrees in both directions...I did the first on in the car (it sucked) I did the next ones on the bench....much easier. If you have the time, pull the front tin and pull the fan...mark it really well with a dremel...cut in little grooves. Wipe the edge with a rag full of white paint...then wipe it all off so just the grooves are full. This (BTW) is how to restore a framing square so you can read it again. Rich |
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