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VaccaRabite |
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#1
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En Garde! ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Admin Posts: 13,752 Joined: 15-December 03 From: Dallastown, PA Member No.: 1,435 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region ![]() ![]() |
My 2056 is getting elevated oil temps on the freeway. I am using a high volume pump, and seeing about 40 pounds of pressure on the freeway when my oil is up to temp.
What I think is happening is that there is too much pressure, and the oil is not being pumped through the oil cooler due to the check valve closing the passage. However, this is just a guess, as I don't have any way to test it. All I know is that when I am driving at revs, oil temp goes up and if I keep driving at higher revs the oil temps stay up). if I drop revs, oil temps fall back into place, but I can't do that on the freeway without building a lot of head heat. Before I go through the trouble and expense of adding an oil cooler, I want to make sure that I have checked out the simple fixes first. What do I do to make sure oil if going through the oil cooler? What is the point where pressure cuts off passage through the cooler? All tin is in place, and fan housing flaps divert air over the oil cooler 100% of the time (no thermostat in place, so the flaps are always set to cool). Zach |
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DanT |
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#2
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Going back to the Dark Side! ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 4,300 Joined: 4-October 04 From: Auburn, CA Member No.: 2,880 Region Association: None ![]() |
When I built my 2056 I did away with the thermostat for the motor and permanently put the flaps to the position to always direct air over the stock oil cooler...I also ran a very large cooler and fan up front...
Car never had an issue with temps...but I also ran stock oil pump and did not change any of the bypass springs...also ran a Tuna Can. I had good oil pressures at all operating RPMS and temps.... |
realred914 |
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#3
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Senior Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Retired Members Posts: 1,086 Joined: 1-April 10 From: california Member No.: 11,541 Region Association: None ![]() |
When I built my 2056 I did away with the thermostat for the motor and permanently put the flaps to the position to always direct air over the stock oil cooler...I also ran a very large cooler and fan up front... Car never had an issue with temps...but I also ran stock oil pump and did not change any of the bypass springs...also ran a Tuna Can. I had good oil pressures at all operating RPMS and temps.... Bad Bad Bad You NEED the proper warm up that the thermostat provides. Would you be ok running a Ford, Toyota or Honda with the thermostat removed? are you sure your temps are ok? running cold like after you first start the car after having it off and cool will increase wear, there is no doubt about it. also understand that ther is evidence posted that the flaps actually move during driving to help regulate the optimal temp. I'd get the thermostat installed,do it right, your car is suffering from cold running with out the thermostat. false economy to skimp on a thermostat. Why do so many folks with air cooled cars insist that removing of the warm up system is good for there cars? That dont happen in the world of water cooled cars, I wish folks would stop thinking they cool better or just fine with no warm up flaps and thermostat bellows. get all that stuff installed and your engine will be much much happier. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif) high oil pressure usually means low temps (viscus oil) thus the relief valve when under higher pressure bypasses the cooler. as oil warms up and pressure drops, the relief valve sends more of the oil too the cooler. as the oil cools, the relief valve them starts to send some of the oil away from the cooler. If you have some supper high pressure oil pump, more oil will bypass the cooler untill it gets hot enough to get thin enough for pressure to drop enough to be sent thru the cooler. If you run 90 wieght gear oil in the motor, the oil pressure would be way too high, and you'd be bypassing the cooler untill the oil got hot enough to thin it down such that pressure drops. however 90 is way too thick and it may have to get way too hot before it gets thin enough to be sent to the cooler. your doing a balance act of pressure and temps. but you must keep in mind you motor needs a miminal oil pressure to lube ok (general rule of thimb is 10 psi per 1000 rpm as a minimal oil pressure) your oil has limits on how hot it can get before it is damaged, oil like to be not much more than 100C (boiling water at sea level) get too hot (say 125C and the oil can break down) so you have some parameters to play with, you could put a stiffer spring int eh bypass such that the oil is sent thru the cooler at a higher pressure (ie when oil is cooler) but there is only so much you can do with springs. if the engine is shot, your oil pressure may not be high enough to ever by the cooler. if your oil is too thin, you may alway run it thru the cooler (and hence it might run cooler) however dont go too thin with the oil in attempst to get more to flow thru the cooler. there is a minimal viscosity you need to get good lubracation. there are some knobs you can turn here to play with, the spring pressure (by pass point) and the oil viscosity. |
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