Gas tank resto, Final Phase - Tank Options

[Pat Garvey]

As many of you know, I have a tank problem, from fibe years (almost) gas sitting in the tank. I bought a good tank, with a bad finish. I'm documenting the rstor of it here.

Phase One - the easy part. I used the evap tank to rehone my finishing skills. It was presentable to most, but not to me. Stripped to bare metal, primed, wet sanded & 3 final coats of black satin. Three days later - wet sanded with 800 grit, Turtle Wax rubbing compound, and Meguiars Show car Glaze. Too shiney, but blame it on intense wet sanding!
Pics show it all.
Pat

Phase Two - Fuel collar. Not too bad after some high grit sanding. We'll see how tha finish coat sticks. Stay tuned, because the tank comes next!
For those who think I'm sitting on my ass, pontificating - think again!
Pat

[Tom_T]

Pat - what was the red primer you used (name/brand) & where do you get it?

Keep up the posts as the project progresses plz!

[Pat Garvey]

Pat - what was the red primer you used (name/brand) & where do you get it?

Keep up the posts as the project progresses plz!

Tom,

It's Krylon. Yeah, I know that many people thru the years have poo-poo'd it as "non-professional". Fact is this - I've used Krylon products successfully for years. It's all in the preparation, and the tasks between coats.

When I first started on this evaporator, I though about just simply taking it down to bare metal with finer & finer grits. I have a Craftsman triple head sander that I use because it moves around corners nicely. But first I used a product called Citrus Strip - you can get it at any FLAPS & comes in brush-on or spray version. I've used the spray version a bunch of times & prefer it because it doesn't leave a mess behind. Spray it on, wait 12-24 hours & the paint amost slides off usually. In this case it didn't get everything, so I brought the sander into play. As you can see, that was the end of the rest of the paint, though I did take the metal down to 800 grit.

Next, I wiped everything down with laquer thinner. Opened all doors & ran like hell,even though I wore protection. Didn't smoke my pipe that afternoon!

Next came the Rustoleum Rust Tough. It's formulated so that it checks rust, so long as you've scraped any chunks of rust off. I didn't want o take a chance with that, which is why I sanded. Two coats, let dry for 36-48 hrs. Wet sand & let dry. Smooth as a babies bottom & ready to topcoat. Recommend this product.
Pat

[Pat Garvey]

Pat - what was the red primer you used (name/brand) & where do you get it?

Keep up the posts as the project progresses plz!

Tom,

It's Rustoleum. Yeah, I know that many people thru the years have poo-poo'd it as "non-professional". Fact is this - I've used Rusto products successfully for years. It's all in the preparation, and the tasks between coats.

When I first started on this evaporator, I though about just simply taking it down to bare metal with finer & finer grits. I have a Craftsman triple head sander that I use because it moves around corners nicely. But first I used a product called Citrus Strip - you can get it at any FLAPS & comes in brush-on or spray version. I've used the spray version a bunch of times & prefer it because it doesn't leave a mess behind. Spray it on, wait 12-24 hours & the paint amost slides off usually. In this case it didn't get everything, so I brought the sander into play. As you can see, that was the end of the rest of the paint, though I did take the metal down to 800 grit.

Next, I wiped everything down with laquer thinner. Opened all doors & ran like hell,even though I wore protection. Didn't smoke my pipe that afternoon!

Next came the Rustoleum Rust Tough. It's formulated so that it checks rust, so long as you've scraped any chunks of rust off. I didn't want o take a chance with that, which is why I sanded. Two coats, let dry for 36-48 hrs. Wet sand & let dry. Smooth as a babies bottom & ready to topcoat. Recommend this product.
Pat

Whoops! Forgot that I changed medium. Not Rustoleun - Krylon!
Pat