Painting questions, order of operations for a long restore Options

[obscurity]

I have been looking for the appropriate order fo oprerations to use as I restore my car. It will be a long process of fixing one area priming and moving on. My understanding right now is as follows(I encourage any comments):

These steps are during the fixing process:
1. Rust convertor (Ospho or POR15) (will these work under epoxy primer?)
2. Epoxy Primer (may not go well over ospho - should this be a rattle can of etching primer if so who makes a good one? (A rattle can would make things easier since I am doing small areas and I don't want to load up a paint gun every time I need to spray a few square feet)

Then once every thing is fixed:
3. Sand/media/baking soda blast car (leaning toward baking soda)
4. Etching wash primer (is this necessary if I blast the car)
5. Epoxy Primer
6. Basecoat (thinking of using Deltron 2000 but not really sure if PPG is the right answer)
7. Clearcoat

Does this look overly complicated?
Is PPG a good brand? I have also looked at Sikkens but can't find much about their options on their web page.

I have been reading many of the popular rustorations posts but it is often hard to follow what order they are doing things in.


Any help will be greatly appreciated,

[bobhasissues]

No offense intended, but if you want to do a good job, you need to take a step back and do some more homework before you get into this.
Ospho, Metal Ready and other acids will etch. The etching primer is redundant. Go to a paint shop and explain what you are attempting to do, they will set you up with what you need. And, from my own experience, doing things piecemeal and dragging out the resto will double your cost and probably diminish your end results. I say this because I have experienced it. If you are intending to repaint panel by panel with metallic, the panel will never match. Please, for your own good, stop now and rethink this.

[obscurity]

No offense intended, but if you want to do a good job, you need to take a step back and do some more homework before you get into this.
Ospho, Metal Ready and other acids will etch. The etching primer is redundant. Go to a paint shop and explain what you are attempting to do, they will set you up with what you need. And, from my own experience, doing things piecemeal and dragging out the resto will double your cost and probably diminish your end results. I say this because I have experienced it. If you are intending to repaint panel by panel with metallic, the panel will never match. Please, for your own good, stop now and rethink this.

My goal right now was to repair the obvious rust (hell hole, firewall, floors) and then get the repairs protected. Once that was done (which may take years at the rate I'm moving) blast the car, repair any aditional issue I might find and repaint the whole thing in one shot.

I do like PRS914-6's idea of blasting it all now but at least in the short term I am trying to spand as little as I can (with the economy in the toilet and a limited number of people coming to request my services).

[Tom_T]

No offense intended, but if you want to do a good job, you need to take a step back and do some more homework before you get into this.
Ospho, Metal Ready and other acids will etch. The etching primer is redundant. Go to a paint shop and explain what you are attempting to do, they will set you up with what you need. And, from my own experience, doing things piecemeal and dragging out the resto will double your cost and probably diminish your end results. I say this because I have experienced it. If you are intending to repaint panel by panel with metallic, the panel will never match. Please, for your own good, stop now and rethink this.

My goal right now was to repair the obvious rust (hell hole, firewall, floors) and then get the repairs protected. Once that was done (which may take years at the rate I'm moving) blast the car, repair any aditional issue I might find and repaint the whole thing in one shot.

I do like PRS914-6's idea of blasting it all now but at least in the short term I am trying to spand as little as I can (with the economy in the toilet and a limited number of people coming to request my services).

Not a bad approach on the rustoration parts a bit at a time (I've been doing similar) - I think he just meant not to paint it final bit by bit, which I don't think you meant anyway.

IMHO - I would not blast the whole car now/first - but rather do as you planned - the known rust areas first & use a protective rust inhibiting primer to "hold" those areas as you work around the car over time (maybe a long time), then do the soda/media blast (or paint stripper) to the whole car to uncover any further issues, old bondo, etc.; repair those - then you can etch prime & paint the whole car in one shot (well several "shots" - 1 per each coat) as you'd planned.

On the blast, you want to use soda for most of it to pull off the paint - after you do your main rusto repairs as you noted - then go with a not too coarse walnut or similar soft media to remove rust found under the paint. As I understand it - sode will remove paint without harming rubber, plastic, chrome, etc. but it a PITA to clean out of every nook-n-cranny - but it won't remove the rust, whereas the media blast to the specific rusted areas will blast the rust to bare metal. However, the sand, glass, plastic bead media will tend to warp the panels.

You can get less expensive soda blast set-ups to do yours yourself, if you can clean up, and those may take media too for the rust areas.

Others swear by aircraft or other paint stripp as easier for home use, but the stripper can get into the nooks & crannies & prevent the paint & primer from sticking there.

So there's pros & cons to both methods - whether it's stripper or media/sode in the nooks, crannies, down your B-crack, etc.!

Also of note - if you're not doing a metaillic 2 or 3 step paint (base-clear or base-top-clear), then it's a lot easier to match with a solid color,such as the Bahia Red (??) I see in your avitar. .... plus the old paints on them in solid colors were not clear coated back in the day.

From what shop guys & folks on here have told me, PPG is a good paint, as is Dupont, as well as Glasurit (PPG owned), Sekunds (sp?), & some others.

Good paint color links here:
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?act...f=2&t=39488
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?act...f=2&t=60531

Post progress pix here for all to see plz!
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