Gas tank resto, Final Phase - Tank Options

[Pat Garvey]

As many of you know, I have a tank problem, from fibe years (almost) gas sitting in the tank. I bought a good tank, with a bad finish. I'm documenting the rstor of it here.

Phase One - the easy part. I used the evap tank to rehone my finishing skills. It was presentable to most, but not to me. Stripped to bare metal, primed, wet sanded & 3 final coats of black satin. Three days later - wet sanded with 800 grit, Turtle Wax rubbing compound, and Meguiars Show car Glaze. Too shiney, but blame it on intense wet sanding!
Pics show it all.
Pat

Phase Two - Fuel collar. Not too bad after some high grit sanding. We'll see how tha finish coat sticks. Stay tuned, because the tank comes next!
For those who think I'm sitting on my ass, pontificating - think again!
Pat

[Pat Garvey]

OK, now I need some help!

I primed the tank with a zinc-based primer. Seemed like the right thing to do. Prior to priming, everything was wet sanded with 320 grit. Nice "baby's butt" finish. Yhen I primed (after wiping down with 96% Isoprop).

But.....now I have this "nubby" finish that needs to be way cut before final coats. Tried wet sanding with 600 - little effect. Don't want to cut through the primer. Any thoughts on steel wool? Just want to take the nubs off, without cutting through 2 coats of primer.
I know that most of think I'm whacko, but I want my 914 preservedexactly as I got it in 1972.
Pat

[Tom_T]

OK, now I need some help!

I primed the tank with a zinc-based primer. Seemed like the right thing to do. Prior to priming, everything was wet sanded with 320 grit. Nice "baby's butt" finish. Yhen I primed (after wiping down with 96% Isoprop).

But.....now I have this "nubby" finish that needs to be way cut before final coats. Tried wet sanding with 600 - little effect. Don't want to cut through the primer. Any thoughts on steel wool? Just want to take the nubs off, without cutting through 2 coats of primer.
I know that most of think I'm whacko, but I want my 914 preservedexactly as I got it in 1972.
Pat

Pat, if it was smooth before paint, then you either got some grit on the surface (dust, lint, steel wool "hairs", etc.), or else the spray droplets dried before hitting the surface & creating the rough surface. Either way you'll need to re-smooth it with stepped grits (320, 400, 600), then shoot it again.

Then when you reshoot it, take it in several light coats (I tend to be "the king of runs" & have to watch myself - you may be the opposite erring too far & getting dry paint "dust" by the time it reaches the surface) & be careful with your spray distance to surface, technique, etc. - as the way it lays down can vary with temp., humidity, distance (too far creates a paint dust), how much the rattle can nozzle is putting out & how fine/dense the mist is, how well mixed the paint it, if it's old (sitting in a warehouse or your garage), and other factors.

It might help to have a test surface handy each time to try out what works best at particular times of day/night that you shoot coats. The dehumidifier can have localized effects too, if you're close to it, causing the paint mist to dry too much before it reaches the surface.

[Pat Garvey]

OK, now I need some help!

I primed the tank with a zinc-based primer. Seemed like the right thing to do. Prior to priming, everything was wet sanded with 320 grit. Nice "baby's butt" finish. Yhen I primed (after wiping down with 96% Isoprop).

But.....now I have this "nubby" finish that needs to be way cut before final coats. Tried wet sanding with 600 - little effect. Don't want to cut through the primer. Any thoughts on steel wool? Just want to take the nubs off, without cutting through 2 coats of primer.
I know that most of think I'm whacko, but I want my 914 preservedexactly as I got it in 1972.
Pat

Pat, if it was smooth before paint, then you either got some grit on the surface (dust, lint, steel wool "hairs", etc.), or else the spray droplets dried before hitting the surface & creating the rough surface. Either way you'll need to re-smooth it with stepped grits (320, 400, 600), then shoot it again.

Then when you reshoot it, take it in several light coats (I tend to be "the king of runs" & have to watch myself - you may be the opposite erring too far & getting dry paint "dust" by the time it reaches the surface) & be careful with your spray distance to surface, technique, etc. - as the way it lays down can vary with temp., humidity, distance (too far creates a paint dust), how much the rattle can nozzle is putting out & how fine/dense the mist is, how well mixed the paint it, if it's old (sitting in a warehouse or your garage), and other factors.

It might help to have a test surface handy each time to try out what works best at particular times of day/night that you shoot coats. The dehumidifier can have localized effects too, if you're close to it, causing the paint mist to dry too much before it reaches the surface.

Tom,
Figure it out. It was the zinc-based primer. Mini particles of zinc mixed into the primer. Wasn't "nubbs", but the mini particles of zinc standing on end. Tried ti take them down with 600 grit, but they were just bending.. Went back to 400 & it worked fine, though cut through in a couple of spots. Re-primed & will take them down with 1200, as well as the rest of the tank.

Then comes the L43. The gift can from Tod won't be nearly enough - I want 2 coats, 1500 grit wet sand & a final coat, so I'll need more L43.

Hint to others - if you use Krylon zinc based primer expect extra work. Is it worth it - dunno. We'll see.

Am I making this a lifetime event? You tell me when it's complete. Yes, I am anal!
Pat

[Tom_T]

OK, now I need some help!

I primed the tank with a zinc-based primer. Seemed like the right thing to do. Prior to priming, everything was wet sanded with 320 grit. Nice "baby's butt" finish. Yhen I primed (after wiping down with 96% Isoprop).

But.....now I have this "nubby" finish that needs to be way cut before final coats. Tried wet sanding with 600 - little effect. Don't want to cut through the primer. Any thoughts on steel wool? Just want to take the nubs off, without cutting through 2 coats of primer.
I know that most of think I'm whacko, but I want my 914 preservedexactly as I got it in 1972.
Pat

Pat, if it was smooth before paint, then you either got some grit on the surface (dust, lint, steel wool "hairs", etc.), or else the spray droplets dried before hitting the surface & creating the rough surface. Either way you'll need to re-smooth it with stepped grits (320, 400, 600), then shoot it again.

Then when you reshoot it, take it in several light coats (I tend to be "the king of runs" & have to watch myself - you may be the opposite erring too far & getting dry paint "dust" by the time it reaches the surface) & be careful with your spray distance to surface, technique, etc. - as the way it lays down can vary with temp., humidity, distance (too far creates a paint dust), how much the rattle can nozzle is putting out & how fine/dense the mist is, how well mixed the paint it, if it's old (sitting in a warehouse or your garage), and other factors.

It might help to have a test surface handy each time to try out what works best at particular times of day/night that you shoot coats. The dehumidifier can have localized effects too, if you're close to it, causing the paint mist to dry too much before it reaches the surface.

Tom,
Figure it out. It was the zinc-based primer. Mini particles of zinc mixed into the primer. Wasn't "nubbs", but the mini particles of zinc standing on end. Tried ti take them down with 600 grit, but they were just bending.. Went back to 400 & it worked fine, though cut through in a couple of spots. Re-primed & will take them down with 1200, as well as the rest of the tank.

Then comes the L43. The gift can from Tod won't be nearly enough - I want 2 coats, 1500 grit wet sand & a final coat, so I'll need more L43.

Hint to others - if you use Krylon zinc based primer expect extra work. Is it worth it - dunno. We'll see.

Am I making this a lifetime event? You tell me when it's complete. Yes, I am anal!
Pat

Pat, the Wurth zinc rich primer seems to be smoother & work better.

Here's where I told Tod about the L43 -
http://www.wolfsburgwest.com/wolfsburg_new...stuff/paint.cfm