Painting questions, order of operations for a long restore Options

[obscurity]

I have been looking for the appropriate order fo oprerations to use as I restore my car. It will be a long process of fixing one area priming and moving on. My understanding right now is as follows(I encourage any comments):

These steps are during the fixing process:
1. Rust convertor (Ospho or POR15) (will these work under epoxy primer?)
2. Epoxy Primer (may not go well over ospho - should this be a rattle can of etching primer if so who makes a good one? (A rattle can would make things easier since I am doing small areas and I don't want to load up a paint gun every time I need to spray a few square feet)

Then once every thing is fixed:
3. Sand/media/baking soda blast car (leaning toward baking soda)
4. Etching wash primer (is this necessary if I blast the car)
5. Epoxy Primer
6. Basecoat (thinking of using Deltron 2000 but not really sure if PPG is the right answer)
7. Clearcoat

Does this look overly complicated?
Is PPG a good brand? I have also looked at Sikkens but can't find much about their options on their web page.

I have been reading many of the popular rustorations posts but it is often hard to follow what order they are doing things in.


Any help will be greatly appreciated,

[SirAndy]

Any primer you put on now will have to be removed before painting if you indeed wait months (or years) between primer and paint.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif) Andy

[PRS914-6]

Any primer you put on now will have to be removed before painting if you indeed wait months (or years) between primer and paint.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif) Andy

Andy, my 914 was blasted and primed and not painted for 9 months. The 911 for my daughter was blasted and primed 6 months before paint. No issues

I'm not a painter but we used a good epoxy primer on it 10 minutes after blasting it. The painter insisted that the dangers of finger prints, sweat, moisture and rust formation was far worse than the primer. Most of it gets sanded off anyway during the blocking\body work process and many more coats are sprayed to get it flat.

Something has to be applied to protect the work long term. If not primer, what?

[SirAndy]

Most of it gets sanded off anyway during the blocking\body work process

Well, isn't that what i said?

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) Andy

[PRS914-6]

Most of it gets sanded off anyway during the blocking\body work process

Well, isn't that what i said?

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) Andy

Well, kinda....but the words "any" and "have to" indicated to me that you can't leave any old primer on. I was trying to make the point that plenty of old primer was left on mine without any problems, perhaps because of a quality primer.

Yeah I know...German is much easier...

I would be curious what the painters said about this topic (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smoke.gif)

[scotty b]

Most of it gets sanded off anyway during the blocking\body work process

Well, isn't that what i said?

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) Andy

Well, kinda....but the words "any" and "have to" indicated to me that you can't leave any old primer on. I was trying to make the point that plenty of old primer was left on mine without any problems, perhaps because of a quality primer.

Yeah I know...German is much easier...

I would be curious what the painters said about this topic (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smoke.gif)

I have been driving my 944 for 4 years with nothing but primer on it. I work on the roof as I find time and reprime it. Roof gets done first so I can have something to show people other than pictures. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif) A perfect black paint job speaks volumes, because few take the time or have the knowledge to do it right.

There is no need to remove primer if it sits, provided it is a GOOD primer, not cheap crap.

Spray cans are a no-no. They are junk.

Oshpo doesn't need to be etched over.

Fuck POR-15

The etching primer ( Spies Hecker ) I use has chemicals that do the same thing as Ospho and is compatible with the primer I put over it. I have also etched a Jeep hood with it and let it sit outside for over 5 years now with NOTHING else on it and the has has yet to rust.

Spies etch is also weldable, I spray it inside any cavities I am enclosing before and after welding the new part on.

Cheap primers left on a car over time WILL absorb water and create more issues then they solve.

Did I miss anything ?? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wacko.gif)