Brake upgrades? What do you use? Options

[TorqueJunkie]

I have a 1973 914/6 conversion with 2.4 L engine(being rebuilt now), and I am running the Alloy "S" brake calipers up front. I am looking to upgrade the front brakes. Boxster calipers are cheaper than the Big reds and a bit smaller as I would like to run a 17" wheel or smaller.

Anyone have the boxster calipers installed? Which rotors did you use? Adapters?

I have an old set of Bremtek calipers that I might use if I can find some seal kits for them still.

New to these forums, but love all the stuff on this site...especially all the racing pics

[Eric_Shea]

For a dedicated track car with no E-brake requirement, M's in the back pretty much duplicates the factory (street, non-GT) /6 setup. Should work really well.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) Probably saved a little weight with that set-up... 2 ounces each to be precise (over a 914-4 caliper).

However... unless you took the spacers out, you added a vented rotor so, that would add an additional 4lbs. (approx. 2lbs. each). Good move regardless because I don't think 914 rear calipers are a good match for 48mm pistons or that larger pad. They're basically not a good match for anything but a 914 front caliper. The BMW (quazi) "upgrade" does the same thing. A Suby guy in the garage did this and had the same results. Again, 48mm pistons and a pad that is almost identical to the A-Caliper (Carrera) and S-Caliper size.

One way to do it (as eluded to above) would be to use 911 rear calipers for the best brake bias with the 38mm pistons and larger pads. Take out the spacers and use early 914-4 front fasteners (M7 stuff is virtually unavailable). Then use the lighter 914-6 rotors. This would shave 1lb. 12oz. off the weight of a standard 914-6 set-up. More if you consider the savings from no cables and not handbrake. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

This is "way" cost effective (when flown in the face of the costly 914-6 caliper). I put a few sets together from time to time and threw them in the classifieds but... nobody seems to understand the application. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

The pro autocross guys can weigh in here but, I don't think you'd need a vented rotor back there for autocrossing. I guess it depends on how close the run groups are or, how many runs per. Not sure. That said, I would contend that autocrossing is probably harder on the brakes than road courses where fairly long stretches might allow for better cooling all around.